BOOKS,
ARTICLES, AND DISSERTATIONS ON CLOTHING,
1840-1865
Compiled by Vicki Betts
Updated July 8, 2002
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Scope:
English language books, articles, CD-ROMS, calendars, theses, and
dissertations on the civilian clothing of men, women, and children, 1840-1865,
focusing primarily on the United States, Great Britain, and Canada.
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To purchase individual issues or
reprints from Citizens’ Companion, The Watchdog, or Civil War
Lady, please contact:
Citizens’ Companion
The Watchdog
Joy Melcher
P.O. Box 707 P.O. Box 1675
Civil War Lady
Marietta, OH 45750
Warren MI 48090-1675
P.O. Box 531
Clarinda IA 51632
For all other materials, please visit your local library, and if it does not have the items, inquire about interlibrary loan.
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Aprons
Bowling, Elizabeth. “How
to Make a Dressy Gauged Apron.” Citizens’
Companion 6 no.
4 (October-November 1999):
26-30.
Miller, Beth. “Soutache & the
Braided Aprons.” Civil War
Lady no. 15 (1995): 4-8.
Ballroom
Attire
Aldrich, Elizabeth. From the Ballroom to Hell:
Grace and Folly in Nineteenth Century
Dance.
Evanston, Ill.: Northwestern University Press, 1991. [Includes dress.]
Grimble, Frances. “Making
Costumes for Victorian Balls.” Vintage
Fashion 2 no.1
(January/February 1991):
44-49.
Guinca, Mary. “Fancy That!
Victorian Costume Balls.” Lady’s
Gallery 3 no. 2 (1995):
25-30.
Guinca, Mary. “Party Dresses.”
Lady’s Gallery 1 no.3 (1993):
4-9.
Miller, Beth. “The Ballgown.”
Civil War Lady 2 no.9 (1993): 2-5.
Miller, Beth. “Ballgown Bodice
Construction.” Civil War Lady
2 no.10 (1994): 4-7.
On, Maola. “Les Grande Toilets
des Balles.” Civil War Lady
no. 23 (1999): 15-18,
21-22.
Szatkowski, Karen J. “What Shall
I Wear to the Christmas Ball?” Citizens’
Companion 2
no. 5 (December 1995/January 1996):
18-20.
Wong, J. M. “My Museum Find.” Civil War Lady 1 no.1 (May/June 1991):
23. [silk ball
gown]
Bloomers
and Reform Dress
Bennett, Paul W. “’Who Wore the
Pants?’ Dress, Gender and Power,
1850-1914.”
History and Social Science
Teacher 25 no. 4 (1990): 221-225.
Coon, Anne C. “The
Bloomer Costume: Fashion Reform,
Folly, and ‘Intellectual Slavery.’”
Rochester History 57 (3)
1995: 18-24, 28.
Cyr, Paul Albert. “The Progress
of Bloomerism.” Spinner:
People and Culture in
Southeastern Massachusetts 5 (1996):
134-141.
Fischer, Gayle V. “Clothes Make
the Woman: The National Dress
Reform Association,
1856-1865.”
M. A. thesis, Sarah Lawrence College, 1987.
Fischer, Gayle V. “Dressing to
Please God: Pants-Wearing Women in
Mid-Nineteenth
Century Religious Communities.”
Communal Societies 15 (1995):
55-74.
Fischer, Gayle V. “’Pantalets’
and “Turkish Trowsers’: Designing
Freedom in the
Mid-Nineteenth-Century United States.”
Feminist Studies 23
no. 1 (1997): 111-140.
Fischer, Gayle V. Pantaloons and
Power: A Nineteenth-Century Dress
Reform in the
United States.
Kent, OH: Kent State
University, 2001.
Fischer, Gayle v. “’She Ought
to be a Female-Man’: Dress Reform
in the Oneida
Community, 1848-1879.”
Mid-America 77 no. 3 (1995):
237-265.
Foote, Shelly. “Bloomers.”
Dress 5 (1980): 1-12.
Henshaw, Betty Lou. “The Bloomer
Costume: The Woman’s Dress Reform
Movement of
the 1850’s.”
M.S. thesis, University of Colorado, 1955.
Kesselman, Amy. “The ‘Freedom
Suit’: Feminism and Dress Reform
in the United States,
1848-1875.”
Gender & Society 5 no. 4 (1991):
495-510.
Komski, Elizabeth, “Fashion’s Foes: Dress
Reform from 1850-1900.” M.A.
thesis, College
of William and Mary, 2001.
Kriebl, Karen J. “From Bloomers
to Flappers: The American Dress
Reform Movement,
1840-1920.”
Ph.D. dissertation, Ohio State University, 1998.
Merritt, M. Angeline. “Dress
Reform Practically and Physiologically Considered; With Plates,
Illustrations, Opinions of the Press and
the Private Testimony of Various Prominent
Individuals.”
Buffalo: Jewett, Thomas,
1852. 2 sheets.
Nelson, Jennifer Ladd. "Dress Reform and the Bloomer." Journal
of American &
Comparative Cultures 23 no. 1
(2000): 21-25.
Palmer, Heather. “Mobility or
Tranquility: Bloomer’s.”
Lady’s Gallery 1
no.5 (1994):
65-69.
Rice, Carla. “Fashion, Feminism
and Conflict: The Politics of Dress
Reform from 1850 to
1914.”
M.A. thesis, Harvard University, 1985.
Shaw, Barbara Lorraine. “Contested
Ideologies: Gender and Social
Change in the
Mid-Nineteenth Century Women’s
Dress Reform Movement.” M.A.
thesis, University
of Maryland at College Park, 1995.
Smith, Gerrig. “To the Reform
Dress Association: Peterboro, May
18th 1857.”
[Peterboro?, NY:
s.n., 1957]. one sheet.
Sprinthall, Carolyn. “Nineteenth
Century Dress Reform: Changing the
Shapes of Women’s
Lives.”
Honors paper, Duke University, 1986.
Tinling, Marion. “Bloomerism
Comes to California.” California
History 61 no. 1 (1982):
18-25.
Van Bellegham, Patricia. “Dressing
the Part: Women’s Dress Reform,
1848-1861.” B.A.
thesis, California Polytechnic State
University, 2001.
Bonnets,
Hats, Sunbonnets, Caps, Hoods, and Nets
Amneus, Cynthia. “Cynthia Amneus,
Costume Technician, Re-Creates a Spoon Bonnet,
1861-1864.” Lady’s Gallery 3 no. 4 (1996): 12-14.
Amneus, Cynthia. “Summertime
Spoons: Bonnets of the
Mid-1860’s.” Civil War Lady
2
no. 12 (1994):
14-18.
Bowling, Elizabeth. “Making the
Common Slat Bonnet.” Citizens’
Companion 5 no. 5
(December 1998-January 1999):
32-37.
Christen, Glenna Jo. “Slat
Bonnets: Not Just for Work
Anymore.” The Watchdog 8
no. 3
(Summer 2000):
7-8.
Clark, Fiona. Hats.
Costume Accessories Series. New
York: Drama Book Publishers,
1982.
Darnell, Paula Jean. Victorian
Millinery: Ladies’ Hats,
1850-1900. Reno, Nev.:
Fabric
Fancies, 1995.
Dreher, Denise. From the Neck
Up: An Illustrated Guide to
Hatmaking. Minneapolis:
Madhatter Press, 1981.
Dublin, Thomas. “Women’s Work
and the Family Economy: Textiles
and Palm Leaf
Hatmaking in New England, 1830-1850.”
Tocqueville Review 5 no. 2 (1983):
297-316.
Gamber, Wendy. The Female
Economy: The Millinery and
Dressmaking Trades,
1860-1930.
Urbana: University of
Illinois Press, 1997.
Gray, Linda. “The Case of the
Hidden Bonnet Pins.” Citizens’
Companion 8 no. 3
(August-September 2001):
21-23.
The Ladies’ Self-Instructor in Millinery and Mantua Making, Embroidery and
Applique.
1853.
Reprint. Mendocino, CA: R. L. Shep, 1988.
Langley, Susan and John Dowling. Vintage
Hats and Bonnets, 1770-1970: Identification
and Values.
Paducah, KY: Collector
Books, 1998.
Leisch, Juanita. “Implementing
Historic Accuracy: A ‘Sharp’
Approach.” Civil War Lady 1
no. 2 (1991):
5-7. [head coverings for
females according to age]
Leisch, Juanita. “Topping Off
Your Impression.” Civil War
Lady 1, no. 6: 9-11. [hats]
Liechty, Mindy. "An Infant's Slat Bonnet from Mrs. Christen's
Miscellanea." The Watchdog 10
no. 3 (Summer 2002): 15.
Marsh, Heidi, comp. Hair, Hat,
Hood, and Bonnet, Too, of the Era of the Hoop.
Livermore, CA:
by the author, 1993.
Mellish, Susan. “Romancing the
Past with Hats.” Lady’s Gallery 1 no. 5 (1994): 4-13.
Miller, Lynnette. “Fashionable
Bonnets--1860 to 1865.” Civil
War Lady 2 no.9 (1993):
17-19.
Miller, Lynnette. “A Hood by Any
Other Name...” Civil War Lady
2 no.10 (1994): 13-15.
Miller, Lynnette. “Popular Trims
for Fashionable Bonnets, 1855-1865,” Citizens’
Companion 2 no. 2 (June/July 1995):
13-15.
Miller, Lynnette. “Popular Trims
for Fashionable Bonnets, 1855-1865.” Citizens’
Companion 2 no.3 (August/September
1995): 14-16.
Miller, Lynette. “Searching for
the Every Day Bonnet.” Citizens’
Companion 3 no. 5
(December 1996/January 1997):
24-27. [sunbonnets]
Miller, Lynnette. “To Drive the
Cold Winter Away.” Citizens’
Companion 1 no.5
(December-January, 1995):
13-15. [hoods, soft bonnets,
etc.]
Murphy, Vivian. “Netting for the
Hair: Simple or Elaborate
Headdresses from the Needle
Arts of the 19th Century.”
Citizens’ Companion 4 no. 3 (August-September 1997):
25-29.
Musselman, Anne and Beth Crabb. “More
Slat Bonnet Observations.” The
Watchdog 9 no.
4 (Fall 2001):
12-14.
Sneathen, Brenda. “Vive La Belle
Chapeaux, or Long Live the Beautiful Hat.” Vintage
Fashion 2 no.4 (July/August 1991):
32-38.
Wilson, Kax. “Nineteenth-Century
Embroidery on Net” Piecework 2 no.2 (March/April
1994): 28-30.
British
Clothing
Arnold, Janet. Patterns of
Fashion: English Women’s Dresses
and Their Construction,
c.1660-1860.
London: Wace, 1964.
Bentley, Nicolas. The Victorian
Scene: A Picture Book of the
Period, 1937-1901.
London:
George Wiedenfeld & Nicolson, 1968.
Cunnington, Cecil Willett. English
Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century.
New
York:
Dover, 1990.
Cunnington, Cecil Willett, and Phyllis Cunnington.
Handbook of English Costume in the
Nineteenth Century.
London: Faber and Faber,
1970.
Tozer, Jane and Sarah Levitt. Fabric
of Society: A Century of People and
Their Clothes,
1770-1870.
Carno, Piwys, Wales: Laura
Ashley, 1983.
Buttons
Dubner, Lindy. "About Calico Buttons." Civil War Lady
no. 20 (1997): 6.
Fink, Nancy and Maryalice Ditzler. Buttons:
The Collector’s Guide to Selecting,
Restoring, and Enjoying New and
Vintage Buttons. Philadelphia: Courage Books,
1993.
Luscomb, Sally C. The
Collector’s Encyclopedia of Buttons. Altglen, PA:
Schiffer, 1999.
Meredith, Alan and Gillian Meredith. Buttons.
Princes Risborough, Buckinghamshire:
Shire
Publications, 2000.
Nehring, Nancy. “Crocheted
Buttons.” Piecework 2 no.2 (March/April 1994):
65-67.
also “Crocheted and Buttons to Make”
pp. 68-69.
Nehring, Nancy. 50 Heirloom
Buttons to Make. Newtown, CT: Taunton Press, 1996.
Osborne, Peggy Ann. Button,
Button: Identification and Price
Guide. Altglen, PA:
Schiffer, 1997.
Wisniewski, Debra J. Antique
& Collectible Buttons: Identification
& Values. Paducah,
KY: Collector Books, 1997.
Zaharias, John A. “Button,
Button, Who’s Got the Button?” The
Watchdog 7 no. 2 (Spring
1999):
15.
Canadian
Clothing
Brett, Katharine B. Clothing
Worn in Canada: Changing Fashions
in the Nineteenth
Century.
[Ottawa]: National Museum of
Man, National Museums of Canada, 1979.
McBride, Sheri. “Dress Codes: The
Etiquette of Dress in 19th Century Charlottetown.”
Island Magazine 48
(2000): 31-38. [Prince
Edward Island]
Chemisettes
“In Detail.” Threads
no.100 (April/May 2002): back
cover.
Children’s
Clothing
Bassett, Lynne Zacek. "'The Great Leap": Youths'
Clothing in the Early Nineteenth
Century." Annual
Proceedings of the Dublin Seminar for New England Folklife.
22 (1997): 184-202.
[1820's-1850's]
Carpenter, Virginia. “American
Children as Seen in Fashion Publications: 1850-1890.”
Master’s thesis, Cornell University,
1948.
“Civilian Life Featured in Siege of Charleston Exhibit.”
Citizens’ Companion 7 no. 3
(August-September 2000):
9. [Includes photo of
child’s dress]
Clark, Elizabeth. "Dressing Young boys: Options for Living
History." The Watchdog 10
no. 2 (Spring 2002): 18-19.
Crocker, Karen N. “Coming of Age
in Victorian America.” Citizens’
Companion 4 no. 2
(June-July 1997):
12-16. [younger girls]
Crocker, Karen N. “Coming of Age
in Victorian America: A Guide for
Dressing the Young
Lady Reenactor.”
Citizens’ Companion 4 no. 3 (August-September 1997):
12-15.
Crocker, Karen N. “Dressing the
Young Reenactor.” The Lady
Reenactor v.1, pp.
32-35, 58-59.
Crocker, Karen N. “Infant
Dress--1845-1865.” Citizens’
Companion 2 no. 4
(October/November 1995):
10-12.
“Exhibit of Children’s Clothing Explores ABCs of Gender Identity.”
Citizens’ Companion 6
no. 3 (August-September 1999):
9. [includes photo of boy’s wool plaid skirt suit,
c.1865]
Harris, Kristina. The Child in
Fashion, 1750 to 1920. Atglen,
PA: Schiffer Pub. Ltd.,
1999.
Haug, Joanne. “Dressing Up:
Boy’s Early Childhood Costume” Lady’s Gallery 1 no.3
(1993):
44-49.
Helvenston, Sally I. “American
Children’s Costume in the Period 1841-1885 and Its Relation
to the Child’s Role in Society.” M.S.
thesis, Florida State University, 1975.
Kartchner, Grace Joan. “Dresses
of Mormon Girls, Ages One to Twelve, in the Great Salt
Lake and Utah Valleys from 1847 to
1896.” M.S. thesis, Oregon State
University,
1975.
Kevill-Davies, Sally. Yesterday’s
Children: The Antiques and History
of Childcare.
Woodbridge, Suffolk, England:
Antique Collectors’ Club, 1991.
Leisch, Juanita. “Advice for
Young Mothers.” Civil War Lady
1 no. 1 (May/June 1991):
20-22; 1 no. 5: 17; 2 no.8: 19-20.
Leisch, Juanita. “Advice for
Young Mothers: Sound Advice for
Dressing Youngsters.” Civil
War Lady
1 no. 2 (1991): 14-16; 1 no.3 (1992): 19-21; 1 no.4 (1992): 17.
Leisch, Juanita. “Children’s
Corner.” Civil War Lady 1
no.6: 17; 2 no. 7: 17-18.
MacPhail, Anna. The Well-Dressed
Child. Atglen, PN: Schiffer,
1999. [British]
Miller, Beth. “Advice to Young
Mothers.” Civil War Lady 2
no.10 (1994): 18.
Miller, Beth. “Dressing Baby.” Civil War Lady 2 no.9 (1993): 10-11.
Miller, Lynnette. “Infant
Caps—A Small Controversy.” Civil
War Lady 2, no. 11 (1994):
27-28.
Olian, JoAnne. Children’s
Fashions, 1860-1912: 1,065 Costume
Designs from "La
Mode Illustre.”
New York: Dover
Publications, 1994.
Richards, M. Lynn. “Memories of a
Girlhood Apparel From the United States Indian
Territory, 1850-1907.” Costume 29 (1995):
68-81.
Rose, Clare. Children’s
Clothes Since 1750. London:
Batsford, 1989.
Church of
the Brethren
Rupel, Esther Fern. Brethren Dress: A Testimony to Faith.
Philadelphia, PA: Brethren
Encyclopedia, 1994.
Collars,
Cuffs, Neckties, and Wristlets
Campbell-Shoaf, Heidi. “Details,
Details, Details: Women’s
Neckties & Wristlets.”
Citizens’ Companion 7
no. 1 (April-May 2000): 12-18.
“CDVs: Take a Look at These
Collars.” Costume &
Dressmaker no. 3 (1997): 9.
Scalessa, Nicole H. “Nineteenth-Century
American Women’s Collars and Cuffs: Beautiful
and Necessary.”
Piecework 10 no. 3 (May/June 2002):
59-62.
Scalessa, Nicole H. “Point
D’Eglantier Collar to Crochet.” Piecework
10 no. 3 (May/June
2002:
63-64. [from June, 1854]
Corselets
Melcher, Joy and Jen Peterman. “Corselets.”
Civil War Lady no.21 (1999):
6-9.
Corsets
and Stays
Ambrose, Bonnie Holt. The
Little Corset Book: A Workbook on
Period Underwear.
New York:
Costume & Fashion Press, 1997.
Doyle, Robert. Waisted Efforts:
An Illustrated Guide to Corset Making.
Halifax, N.S.:
Sartorial Press Publications,
1997.
Faeth-Greketis, Maryanne. “The Corset Question.”
Citizens’ Companion 1
no.1
(April/May 1994):
13.
Fontanel, Beatrice. Support and
Seduction: The History of Corsets
and Bras. New
York:
Abrams, 1997.
Gray, Linda. “Stays—An
Alternative to Corsets.” Citizens’
Companion 4 no. 1
(April-May 1997):
16-17.
Hawthorne, Rosemary. Chinstraps,
Nose-Moulds & Corsets: A
Shopper’s Guide to
Feminine Beauty, 1800s-1930s.
London: Michael O’Mara,
1999.
Kolbe, Val. “Urban, Middle-Class
Women and the Fashion of Corsetry in Nineteenth
Century.”
M.S. thesis, University of Wisconsin, 1984.
Smith, Bernard. “Market
Development, Industrial Development: The
Case of the American
Corset Trade, 1860-1920.”
Business History Review 65 no. 1 (1991):
l91-129.
Steele, Valerie. The Corset:
A Cultural History. New
Haven: Yale University Press,
2001.
Summers, Leigh. Bound to Please:
A History of the Victorian Corset.
New York: Berg,
2001.
Waugh, Norah. Corsets and
Crinolines. New York:
Theatre Arts Books/Methuen, 1954.
Eyeglasses
Corson, Richard. Fashions in
Eyeglasses. London:
Peter Owen, 1980.
Hughes, Nicky. “A Closer Look.”
The Watchdog 3 no. 4 (Autumn 1995):
6-7.
[eyeglasses]
McEvoy, Thomas. “Civil War
Glasses—Or, How Not to Make a Spectacle of Yourself.”
The Lady Reenactor
v.1, pp.48-49.
Merta, Matt. "The Eyes Have It: A Close Look at Civil War
Period Eye Wear." Camp
Chase Gazette 20 no. 4 (March
1993): 38-40.
Fancy
Dress
Chartrand, Karen. “Fancy Dress:
A Kaleidoscope of Costume.” Civil
War Lady no. 23
(1999):
2-7.
Schmitt, Carolann. “Fancy Dress:
Costumes for These Special Occasions Require Originality
and Creativity.”
Citizens’ Companion 6 no. 3 (August-September 1999):
12-18.
Fans
Alexander, Helene. Fans.
Costume Accessories Series. New
York: Drama Book
Publishers, 1984.
Alexander, Helene. Fans.
Princes Risborough: Shire,
2002.
Blue, Wendy Hamilton. “Cupid’s
Weapon.” Lady’s Gallery
2 no.4: 4-9. (fans, including
two 1850, one mid-19th century, one 1840)
Hart, Avril. Fans. London: V &
A Publications, 1998.
Mackay, James. Fans.
Edison, NJ: Chartwell Books,
2000.
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft. History
of the Fan. London:
Kegan, Paul, Trench, Trubner, and
Co., 1910.
Fichus
Hughes, Susan Lyons. “Fishing
for a Correct Fichu.” The
Watchdog 2 no. 2 (Summer
1994): 5.
Logan, Anisa P. “The Lacy
Fichu.” Civil War Lady no.
22 (1999): 2-7.
Frontier
Clothing
Campbell, Julie A. and Brenda Brandt.
“’No Seamstresses, No Ready-Made Clothing’:
Clothing Consumption on the
American Frontier, 1850-1890.” Clothing
and Textiles
Research Journal v.12 no. 3 (1994):
16-21.
Carlson, Laurie Winn. “On
Sidesaddle to the Columbia: Pioneer Travel in Feminine
Fashion.”
Columbia 13 no. 1 (1999): 9-14.
Evenson, Sandra Lee and David J. Trayte. "Dress and the Negotiations
of Relationships
Between the Dakota and Euroamericans
in Nineteenth Century Minnesota" in Religion,
Dress and the Body. Edited
by Linda Arthur. Oxford: Berg, 1999. pp. 95-116.
Helvenston, Sally I. “Fashion on
the Frontier.” Dress 17
(1990): 141-155.
Helvenston, Sally I. “Feminine
Response to a Frontier Environment as Reflected in the
Clothing of Kansas Women:
1854-1895.” Ph.D.
dissertation, Kansas State University,
1985.
Helvenston, Sally I. “Ornament or
Instrument? Proper Roles for Women
on the Kansas
Frontier.”
Kansas Quarterly 18 no. 3 (1986):
35-49. [related to dress]
Holman, David and Billie Persons. Buckskin
and Homespun: Frontier Texas
Clothing,
1828-1870.
Austin: Wind River Press,
1979.
Larson, Joyce Marie. “Clothing of
Pioneer Women of Dakota Territory, 1861-1889.” M.S.
thesis, South Dakota State University,
1978.
Love, Deanna. “Dress of American
Women Pioneer in the Westward Movement from
1836-1889.” Master’s thesis, University of Maryland, 1969.
McMartin, Maria Barbara. “Dress
of the Oregon Trail Emigrants: 1843-1855.” Master’s
thesis, Iowa State University, 1977.
Richard, K. Keith. “Of
‘Gingham,’ ‘Barn Doors,’ and ‘Exquisites’:
George H. Himes on
Pioneer Fashion.”
Oregon Historical Quarterly 90 no. 4 (1990):
385-393.
[1850’s-1917]
Walker, Margaret. “’All the
Fantastic Costumes’: Rags on the
Way to Riches (And No
Skirting Around the Issue of Who Really
Wore the Pants).” Overland
Journal 15 no. 4
(1997-1998):
12-18. [clothing of women on
overland trail to California in the 1850s]
Fur
Ewing, Elisabeth. Fur in
Dress. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1981.
Garibaldi
Shirts
Gilbert, Pat. “The Great
Cover-Up.” Civil War Lady
2 no. 12 (1994): 20-21.
[Garibaldi
shirts]
Schmitt, Carolann. “Politics and
Fashion: The Garibaldi Shirt.”
Citizens’ Companion 1
no.3 (August/September 1994): 10-13.
General
The American Lady and the Lady of London Paper Dolls, Museum of the City of New
York.
New York: Dover
Publications, 1994. [“American
Lady” is reproduction of
1870; “Lady of London” is reproduction
of 1850]
Arnold, Janet. A Handbook of
Costume. New York:
Macmillan, 1974.
Baclawski, Karen. The Guide to
Historic Costume. New York:
Drama Book Publishers,
1995.
Bailey, Adrian. The Passion for
Fashion. Limpsfield:
Dragon’s World, 1988.
Baruma, Anna. Fashions of the
Past. London:
Collins & Brown, 2000.
Bickford-Swarthout, Doris. “Victorian
Style.” Lady’s Gallery 4
no. 1 (Dec. 1996): 33-37.
[includes fashion plates
1841-1868
Bigelow, Marybelle S. Fashion in
History: Western Dress, Prehistoric
to Present. 2nd
ed. Minneapolis,
MN: Burgess Publishing Co., 1979.
Blum, Stella. Fashions and
Costumes from Godey’s Lady’s Book Including Eight Plates
in Full Color.
New York: Dover
Publications, 1985.
Bohrer, Norma. "A Victorian Lady's Accoutrements." Camp
Chase Gazette 20 no. 8
(July 1993): 38-40.
Bradfield, Nancy. Costume in
Detail, 1730-1930. Boston:
Plays, Inc., 1968, 1983.
Buck, Anne. Costume and Costume
Accessories. New York:
Thomas Nelson and Sons,
1962.
Buck, Anne. Victorian Costume
and Costume Accessories. London:
Herbert Jenkins,
1961. Rev. 2nd ed. New York: Costume & Fashion Press, 1997.
Burch, Janis G. “The Fashionable
Silhouette of American Women Using the Crinoline During
the Victorian Period of 1850 Through
1870.” M.S. thesis, University of
Wisconsin-Stout, 1987.
Burgess, Janet. Clothing
Guidelines for the Civil War Era. new
ed. Davenport, Iowa:
Amazon Drygoods, 1985.
Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth
Century Fashion. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1992.
Capretz, Marilyn. “Women’s
Dresses (1850-1879): From Selected
South Louisiana
Costume Collections.”
M.S. thesis, University of Southwestern Louisiana, 1994.
Cashen, Marilynn A. A Moment in
Time: Images of Victorian Fashions
from the
Mid-1800s.
South Plainfield, NJ: MAC
Publications, 1992.
Cavanaugh, Cheryl Lynn. “Fashion,
Class and Labor: Clothing in
American Women’s
Fiction, 1840-1913.”
Ph.D. dissertation, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign,
1998.
Civil War Ladies: Fashions and
Needle-Arts of the Early 1860’s. Mendocino,
CA: R. L.
Shep, 1989.
Clark, Elizabeth Stewart. “Assembling
a ‘Best Bet’ Wardrobe: Good
Advice for New
Reenactors.”
Citizens’ Companion 8 no. 5 (December 2001-January 2002):
12-19.
Colburn, Carol Ann. “The Dress of
the James J. Hill Family, 1863-1916.” Ph.D.
dissertation, University of Minnesota,
1989.
Coleman, Elizabeth Ann. Changing
Fashions 1800-1970. New York:
Brooklyn Museum,
1972.
Collard, Eileen. The Cut of
Women’s 19th Century Dress, Part 3: Victorian
Gothic.
Burlington, Ontario:
Costume Society of Ontario, 1978.
Connolly, Marguerite Alexandra. “Dressing
for the Occasion: The
Differentiation of
Women’s Costume in America,
1770-1910.” Master’s thesis,
University of Delaware,
1987.
Costume Society. Early Victorian
Costume, 1830-1860: Proceedings of
the Third
Annual Conference of the Costume
Society, 1969. London:
Published for the
Society by Victoria and Albert Museum,
1969.
Costume Society. High Victorian
Costume, 1860-1890: Proceedings of
the Second
Annual Conference of the Costume
Society, 1968. London:
Published for the
Society by Victoria and Albert Museum,
1968.
Covais, Joseph S. “Women’s
Fashion 1830-1870: A Simplified
Perspective.” Mid West
Open-Air Museums Magazine 7 no.
2 (April-June 1986): 14-21.
Crane, Diana. Fashion and its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and
Identity in Clothing.
Chicago: University of Chicago
Press, 2000. [1850s-1990s]
Crocker, Karen N. “Coming of Age
in Victorian America: A Guide for
Dressing the Young
Lady Reenactor.”
Citizens’ Companion 4 no. 3 (August-September 1997):
12-15.
Crocker, Karen N. “Creating the
Proper Impression: How Did They
Make That?”
Citizens’ Companion 1
no.1 (April/May 1994): 14-17,
20-22.
Cumming, Valerie. Costume
History, 1500-1900. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1981.
Cumming, Valerie. The Visual
History of Costume Accessories. New
York: Costume &
Fashion Press, 1998.
Cunningham, Patricia, ed. Dress
in American Culture. Bowling
Green: Bowling Green
State University, 1993.
Cunnington, Cecil Willett. Feminine
Attitudes in the Nineteenth Century. New
York:
Haskell House Publishers,
1973.
Davenport, Millia. The Book of
Costume. Vol. I.
New York: Crown Publishers,
1948.
DeMarly, Diana. The History of
Haute Couture, 1850-1950. New
York: Holmes and
Meier, 1980.
Draper, Allison Stark. What
People Wore During the Civil War. New
York: PowerKids
Press, 2001.
During War Times, 1775-1945 [2001 Historic Fashions calendar].
Arlington, VA: Q
Graphics Production Company, 2000.
Evans, Mary. How to Make
Historic American Costumes. Detroit:
Gale Research Co.,
1976.
reprint of 1942 ed.
Ewing, Elisabeth. Everyday
Dress, 1650-1900. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1984.
“Fashion Notes from 1864: Arthur’s
Magazine.” Civil War Lady no.
21 (1999): 14-15.
A Fashion Survey: Nineteenth
Century American Women. Published
as a Guide for the
Cincinnati Art Museum.
Cincinnati, OH: Fashion
Group, n.d.
Fertig, Judith M. “Fashions from
the Gilded Age: The Shelburne
Museum Collection”
Vintage Fashion 2 no. 1
(January/February 1991): 28-34. [photo excellent 1860
gown].
Foster, Vanda. A Visual History
of Costume in the Nineteenth Century. London:
B. T.
Batsford, 1984.
Frost, S. Annie. The Art of
Dressing Well: A Complete Guide to
Economy, Style and
Propriety of Costume.
New York: Dick and
Fitzgerald, 1870.
Gernsheim, Alison. Fashion and
Reality. London: Faber & Faber, 1963.
Gibbs-Smith, Charles H. The
Fashionable Lady in the 19th Century. London:
Her
Majesty’s Stationery Office, 1960.
Ginsburg, Madeleine, et al. Four
Hundred Years of Fashion. London:
Victoria and Albert
Museum, 1992.
“The Girl I Left Behind Me.” Military
Images 6 no. 4 (January-February, 1985):
3-24.
Godey’s Lady’s Book. all
years. often available on microfilm
at university libraries.
Goldthorpe, Caroline. From Queen
to Empress: Victorian Dress,
1837-1877. New
York:
Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1988.
Grafton, Carol Belanger. Shoes,
Hats and Fashion Accessories: A
Pictorial Archive
1850-1940:
2,020 Illustrations. Mineola,
NY: Dover Publications, 1998.
Grafton, Carol Belanger. Victorian
Fashions: Over 1,200 Illustrations
of Women’s
Fashions from 1855-1903.
New York: Dover, 1999.
Grimble, Frances. After a
Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore,
and Wear Vintage
Styles.
San Francisco: Lavolta
Press, 1993.
Guinca, Mary. “Something in the
Water: 19th-Century Watering Place
Customs and
Costumes.”
Lady’s Gallery 2, no. 1 (1994): 33-38.
Harper’s New Monthly Magazine. available
on microfilm in many university libraries.
Harper’s Weekly Magazine. available
on microfilm in many university libraries.
Harris, Kristina. Collector’s
Guide to Vintage Fashions: Identification
and Value.
Paducah, KY:
Collector Books, 1999.
Harris, Kristina. Victorian
& Edwardian Fashions for Women, 1840 to 1919.
Atglen,
PA: Schiffer
Publishing Ltd., 1995.
Hartley, Florence. The Ladies’
Book of Etiquette, and Manual of Politeness.
Boston: J.
S. Locke and Co., 1860.
Reprint ed. Davenport, IA:
Amazon Drygoods, 1993. [See
chapters “Dress,” “Traveling,”
“Receipts for the Complexion, &c,” and suggestions in
other chapters on proper dress.]
Haug, Joanne. “The Fashionable
Lady.” Lady’s Gallery 1
no.1 (1993): 29-31.
Hawley, David. The Treasures of
the Steamboat Arabia. Kansas
City: the author, 1995.
[photos of some clothing and
related articles.]
Helvenston, Sally I. “Popular
Advice for the Well-Dressed Woman in the 19th Century.”
Dress 5 (1980):
31-47.
Holland, Vyvyan. Hand Coloured
Fashion Plates, 1770 to 1899. London:
B. T.
Batsford, 1955.
Hoobler, Dorothy. Vanity Rules:
A History of American Fashion and Beauty.
Brookfield, CT: Milbrook Press, 1999.
Hughes, Susan Lyons. First
Impressions: Getting Started in
Civilian Reenacting.
Marietta, OH: Camp Chase Publishing Co., 1994.
Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costume
for Stage and Screen: Patterns for
Women’s Dress,
1800-1909.
Studio City, NY: Players
Press, 1991.
Illustrated London News.
Introligator, Meredith Rachel. “Clothing
Storage in Nineteenth Century U.S. Households.”
M.S. thesis, Iowa State
University, 1989.
Jonston, Susan. Fashion Paper
Dolls from Godey’s Lady’s Book 1840-1854.
New
York:
Dover Publications, 1977.
Joselit, Jenna Weissman. A
Perfect Fit: Clothes, Character,
and the Promise of
America.
New York: Metropolitan
Books, 2001.
Kalman, Bobbie. 19th Century
Clothing. New York:
Crabtree Publishing Co., 1993.
Kidwell, Claudia and Valerie Steele. Men
and Women: Dressing the Part.
Washington,
DC:
Smithsonian Institute Press, 1989.
Kunciov, Robert. Mr.Godey’s
Ladies. New York:
Bonanza Books, 1971.
Laver, James. Fashions and
Fashion Plates, 1800-1900. London:
King Penguin Books,
1943.
Leisch, Juanita. Civil War
Civilians. Gettysburg:
Thomas Publications, 1994.
Leisch, Juanita. “An Epistle on
Individuality.” Civil War Lady
1 no.5: 5-8.
Leisch, Juanita. The Family
Album: Ladies’ Wear Daily.
Berryville, Va: The Author,
1986.
Leisch, Juanita. “A Photographic
Survey Made Easy: How We Know
‘Who Wore What.’”
Citizens’ Companion 2
no. 5 (December 1995/January 1996): 21-24.
Leisch, Juanita. “Studying
Original Civil War Bodices.” Civil
War Lady 2 no. 7 (1993):
12-14.
Leisch, Juanita. Who Wore What?
Women’s Wear, 1861-1865. Gettysburg,
PA: Thomas,
1995.
Leisch, Juanita. “Who Wore What?
Examining the Methodology.” Citizens’
Companion 2
no. 4 (1995):
13-17.
Levitt, Sarah. Victorians
Unbuttoned: Registered Designs for
Clothing, Their Makers
and Wearers, 1838-1900.
London: George Allen and
Unwin, 1986.
Look of the Ladies: Clothing During
the Civil War. Philadelphia,
PA: Civil War Library
and Museum, 1995. [exhibit catalog]
Lord, William Barry. The Corset
and the Crinoline: A Book of Modes
and Costumes
from Remote Periods to the Present
Time. London: Ward,
Lock, and Tyler, 1868.
Lowe, Elizabeth D. “Museum
Collections vs. Fashion Magazines: Aesthetic
Rules.” Home
Economics Research Journal 19
no. 3 (March 1991): 233-eoa.
MacDonald, Anne L. No Idle
Hands: The Social History of
American Knitting. New
York:
Ballantine Books, 1988.
McClellan, Elisabeth. History of
American Costume, 1607-1870. New
York: London:
B.
T. Batsford, 1986.
McKeown, Deborah. “Crinoline
Triumphant! Women’s Fashions
1860-1865.” Citizens’
Companion 1 no.4 (September/October
1994): 21-25; 1 no.5 (December-January
1995): 21-25.
McMurry, Elsie F. American
Dresses, 1780-1900: Identification
and Significance of
148 Extant Dresses.
Ithaca, NY: Cornell
University, 2001. CD-ROM.
McMurry, Elsie F. “Reflections of
Cultural Change in American Dress from 1850-1890.”
M.S. thesis, Cornell University,
1966.
Marsh, Heidi, comp. Knit, Net,
Crochet, and More of the Era of the Hoop. Livermore,
CA: by
the author, 1993.
Marsh, Heidi, comp. Sew and So
Forth of the Era of the Hoop. Livermore,
CA: by the
author, 1994.
Marsh, Heidi, comp. Styles and
So Forth of the Era of the Hoop. Livermore,
CA: by the
author, 1994.
Martin, Richard and Harold Koda. Bloom.
New York: Metropolitan
Museum of Art,
1995. [includes 1864, 1856 gowns]
Martin, Richard and Harold Koda. Swords
Into Ploughshares. New York:
Metropolitan
Museum of Art, 1995.
Melcher, Joy. “Women Who Work.”
Civil War Lady no. 20 (1997): 12-16.
Mescher, Virginia. Historic
Accounts: A Study of Store Ledgers
from the Mid-Nineteenth
Century, With a Searchable Database.
Burke, VA: Vintage Volumes, 2001.
CD-ROM.
“Middle Aged Women and Little Old Ladies.”
Civil War Lady no. 18 (November 1996):
14-17.
Mills, Betty J. Amanda’s New
Life: A Journal of Fashion History
Through Paper
Dolls.
Lubbock: Texas Tech
University, 1983. [Well
researched—second of three
volume set.]
Moore, Doris Langley-Levy. Fashion
Through Fashion Plates: 1771-1970.
New York:
Clarkson N. Potter, 1971.
Moore, Doris Langley-Levy. The
Woman in Fashion. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1949.
Musser, Cynthia Erfurt. “Silhouettes
in the Past: A Study in Fashion
Trends. The 1840s:
End of the Crinoline.”
Vintage Fashions 1 no.3 (May/ June 1990):
18-25.
Musser, Cynthia Erfurt. “Silhouettes
in the Past: A Study in Fashion
Trends. The 1850s:
Craze for the Hoop.”
Vintage Fashions 2 no.3 (May/June 1991): 36-42.
Musser, Cynthia Erfurt. “Silhouettes
in the Past: A Study in Fashion
Trends. The 1860s, Part
I: Pyramid
Shaping, Looped-Up Skirts and Round Waists.” Vintage Fashions 3 no. 1
(January/February 1992): 12-16.
Norris, Herbert. Costume &
Fashion. New York:
Dutton, 1933.
“Novelties for December From the Pages of Lady’s Book, 1857.” Lady’s
Gallery 1 no.3
(1993):
50.
“Orientalism: Visions of the East
in Western Dress.” Lady’s
Gallery 2 no. 4: 60, 63. [photo
of opera cloak, c1850]
Peacock, John. Costume,
1066-1990s. Rev. ed.
London: Thomas and Hudson,
1994.
Perrot, Philippe. Fashioning the
Bourgiousie: A History of Clothing
in the Nineteenth
Century.
Princeton: Princeton
University Press, 1994.
Peterson’s Magazine.
Peterson’s Patterns for Civil War Era Ladies. 2nd ed.
Springfield, OR: Pioneer
Printwork, 1994.
Presley, Ann Beth and Martha Jenkins. “A
19th Century Day Dress, Documentation and
Reproduction.” Costume & Dressmaker no. 1 (1996):
5-9.
Rawlings, Eleanor Hasbruck. Godeys
Costume Plates in Color. New
York: Dover
Publications, 1979.
Reflections. [1998 Historic
Fashions calendar]. Arlington, VA: Q Graphics Production
Co., 1997.
Richardson, Joanna. La Vie
Parisienne, 1852-1870. New
York: Viking Press, 1971.
Roberts, Helene E. “The Exquisite
Slave: The Role of Clothes in the
Making of the Victorian
Woman.”
Signs 2 no. 3 (1977): 554-569.
Rowland-Warne, L. Costume.
Eyewitness Books. New York: Alfred
A. Knopf, 1992.
[Although a children’s book,
many excellent color photographs of original and
reproduction clothing and accessories.]
Ruth, John A. Decorum, a
Practical Treatise on Etiquette and Dress of the Best
American Society. Tyrone PA: Westvaco,
1979.
Schmidt, Albert J. Fashioning
the Bourgeoisie: A History of
Clothing in the Nineteenth
Century.
Princeton, NJ: Princeton
University Press, 1994.
Schmitt, Carolann. “Some Thoughts
on Diversity in Dress: ‘Playing
It Safe’ vs. Finding New
Information.”
Citizens’ Companion 9 no. 1 (April-May 2002):
25-27.
Setnik, Linda. Victorian Costume
for Ladies, 1860-1900. Atglen,
PA: Schiffer Pub. Ltd.,
2000.
Severa, Joan. Dressed for the
Photographer: Ordinary Americans
& Fashion,
1840-1900.
Kent, Ohio: Kent State
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Sirkis, Susan Bonsall. The Wish
Booklet: Fashion 1861-1865.
Reston, VA: the author,
1965.
[costuming dolls]
Snyder-Haug, Diane. Antique
& Vintage Clothing: A Guide to
Dating & Valuation of
Women’s Clothing 1850 to 1940.
Paducah, KY: Collector
Books, 1997. [pp. 8-19
is “The Crinoline 1850-1869.”]
Strand, Sandra Lou. “The
Psychology of Dress and Its Effects Interpreted in Nineteenth
Century Costume of Women.”
M.A. thesis, University of Washington, 1964.
“Swords into Ploughshares: Military
Dress and the Civilian Wardrobe.” Lady’s
Gallery 3
no. 2 (1995):
58. [review of an exhibit at
the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York,
NY]
Tandberg, Gerilyn G. “Towards
Freedom in Dress for the 19th Century Woman.”
Dress
11 (1985):
11-30. [morning gowns,
josies, maternity dresses, day gowns]
Taylor, Lauren. “A Common Thread:
A Review of Civil War Fashions.” Civil
War Times
Illustrated 24 no. 3 (1985):
32-41.
Thieme, Otto C. Simply Stunning.
Cincinnati, OH: Cincinnati Museum, 1988.
Thieme, Otto C., et al. With
Grace & Favour: Victorian and
Edwardian Fashion in
America.
Cincinnati: Cincinnati Art
Museum, 1993.
“A Time Line of Influences on American Clothing, 1840-1990.” Human
Ecology Forum 19
no. 3 (Spring 1991):
22-25.
Tortora, Phyllis and Keith Eubank. A
Survey of Historic Costume. New
York: Fairchild
Publications, 1989.
Turza, Beth. “Women’s Work
Dresses.” Midwest Open Air Museum Magazine 21 no. 1
(2000):
17-21.
Turza, Beth. “Working Women’s
Attire: A Study of Four Cotton
Print Dresses &
Construction Notes.”
Citizens’ Companion 5 no. 6 (February-March 1999):
18-24.
Tyler, Linda Kartchner. “Material
Culture of Nineteenth-Century America as Reflected in
Women’s Fashion.”
D.A. thesis, Illinois State University, 1999.
Urbanski, Mary Ellen. "A Civil War Fashion Dictionary, Part
II." Camp Chase Gazette 18
no. 5 (April 1991): 26-27.
Urbanski, Mary Ellen. "The Dilemma of the 'Everyday'
Woman." Camp Chase Gazette 19
no. 10 (September 1992): 34-35.
Urbanski, Mary Ellen. “In the Eye
of the Beholder.” Citizens’
Companion 3 no. 6
(February-March 1997):
11-13.
Urbanski, Mary Ellen. “Myths,
Fallacies and Misinformation.” Citizens’
Companion 1 no.3
(August/September 1994): 17-19.
Vansteamburg, Arny. The Everyday
Clothing of Rural Women at the Time of the Civil
War.
Rev. ed. Baltimore:
Mariah Furnace Press, 1993.
Vachon, Diane Leggett. “Documentation
Guidelines for Women’s Day Dress, 1850-1949.”
M.A. thesis, University of
Kentucky, 1976.
Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from “La Mode Illustree”. Mineola, NY: Dover
Publications, 1998.
Victorian Fashion Designs CD-ROM and Book.
New York: Dover, 2002.
Walkley, Christina. Dressed to
Impress: 1840-1914. London: B. T.
Batsford, 1989.
Walkley, Christina and Vanda Foster. Crinolines
and Crimping Irons: Victorian
Clothes,
How They Were Cleaned and Cared For. London: Peter
Owen, 1978.
Warner, Patricia Campbell. “’It
Looks Very Nice Indeed’: Clothing
in Women’s Colleges,
1837-1897.”
Dress 28 (2001): 23-39.
Warren, Geoffrey. Fashions &
Accessories, 1840 through 1980. Atglen,
PA: Schiffer
Pub. Co., 1997.
Waugh, Norah. The Cut of
Women’s Clothes, 1600-1300. New
York: Theatre Arts
Boks, 1968, 1985.
Wilcox, R. Turner. Five
Centuries of American Costume. New
York: Scribner, 1963.
Winter, Janet and Carolyn Schultz. Victorian
Costuming vol. I:
1840-1865. Oakland,
CA: Other
Times Productions, 1980.
Women & Children. [1999
Historic Fashions calendar]. Arlington,
VA: Q
Graphics
Production Co., 1998.
Women’s Fashions at the Time of the Civil War, 1860-1865, v.1-3.
Beverly Shores, IN:
Yesterday in Pictures, 1991.
Worrell, Estelle A. American
Costume, 1840-1920. Harrisburg:
Stackpole Books, 1979.
York, Kathleen A. Civil War
Ladies Sketchbook, v. 1-3. Elgin,
Ill.: House of York, 1980.
Ziegert, Beate. “American Clothing: Identity
in Mass Culture, 1840-1990.” Human
Ecology Forum 19 no. 3 (Spring 1991):
5-11.
Genre and
Other Paintings as Sources
American Genre Painting in the Victorian Era.
New York: Hirschl &
Adler, 1978.
[good color illustrations.]
Ayres, William, ed. Picturing
History: American Painting,
1770-1930. New York:
Rizzoli, 1993.
[good illustrations.]
Burns, Sarah. Pastoral
Inventions: Rural Life in
Nineteenth-Century Art and Culture.
Philadelphia:
Temple University Press, 1989.
Clark, H. Nichols B. Francis W.
Edmonds: American Master in the
Dutch Tradition.
Washington, DC: Published for Amon Carter Museum by the Smithsonian
Institution
Press, 1988.
[good illustrations for fine genre artist.]
Edwards, Lee M. Domestic Bliss:
Family Life in American Painting, 1840-1910.
Yonkers, NY: Hudson River Museum, 1986.
[Good interior scenes of people at
home.]
Fischel, Oskar, and Max von Boehm. Modes
and Manners of the Nineteenth Century as
Represented in the Pictures and
Engravings of the Time. v.3, 1843-1878.
London:
J. M. Dent, 1909.
Garrett, Elisabeth Donaghy. At
Home: The American Family,
1750-1870. New York:
Abrams, 1990.
[Useful for illustrations.]
Hills, Patricia. The Painters’
America: Rural and Urban Life,
1810-1910. New York:
Praeger, 1974.
Holzer, Harold and Mark E. Neeley, Jr. Mine
Eyes Have Seen the Glory: The Civil
War
in Art.
New York: Orion Books, 1993.
Johns, Elizabeth. American Genre
Painting: The Politics of Everyday
Life. New Haven:
Yale University Press, 1991.
[Good illustrations.]
Ormond, Richard and Carol Blackett-Ord. Franz
Zaver Winterhalter and the Courts of
Europe, 1830-1870. London: National
Portrait Gallery, 1987.
Peterson, Harold L. Americans at
Home: From the Colonists to the
Late Victorians.
New York:
Scribner’s, 1971.
Spencer, Lily Martin. Lily
Martin Spencer, 1822-1902: The Joys
of Sentiment.
Washington:
National Collection of Fine Arts, 1973.
[A wonderful American genre
artist who focused on the home and
family.]
Taylor, Joshua C. America as Art.
Washington: National
Collection of Fine Arts, 1976.
Williams, Hermann Warner, Jr. Mirror
to the American Past: A Survey of
American
Genre Painting:
1750-1900. Greenwich
CT: New York Graphic Society,
Gloves and
Mitts
Cumming, Valerie. Gloves.
Costume Accessories Series. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1982.
Falls, Dixie. “Fingerless Silk
Mitts to Crochet.” Piecework 2 no. 4 (July/August 1994):
48-51.
Kalil, Lynn. “Hand in Hand: Ladies’ Gloves and Reenacting.”
The Watchdog 6 no. 3
(Summer 1998): 5-6.
Hair
Styles
Byrd, Ayana D. and Lori L. Tharps.
Hair Story: Untangling
the Roots of Black Hair in
America.
New York: St. Martin’s
Press, 2001.
Griffin, Bobette. “Victorian
Style Hair.” The Lady
Reenactor v.1, p.22.
Isaacson, Jon. “What’s Wrong
with This Picture? Well, Hair It Is!” [men’s hair styles and
hair dressing] Citizens’ Companion
2 no. 2 (June/July 1995): 16-18.
Lawhon, Victoria. “Creating a
Period Hairstyle: A Period
Hairstyle for Every Occasion.”
Citizens’ Companion 6
no. 2 (June-July 1999): 12-15.
McKeown, Deborah. “Hairstyles and
Head Dress.” Citizens’
Companion 2 no. 5
(December 1995/January 1996):
12-17.
Sherman, Ruthann. 1860-65
Victorian Coiffure. Marietta,
GA: by the author, 1988.
Wong, J. “Hair Plaiting.” Civil War Lady no.
15 (1995): 12-13.
Wong, J. “In Search of the
1860’s Hairstyle.” Civil War
Lady 2 no. 7 (1993): 25.
Hoop
Skirts and Petticoats
Altman, Saundra. “Stick-Out
Petticoats.” Civil War Lady
no. 17 (1996): 22-24, 26-29.
Clayton-Gouthro, Cecile. “Social
Commentary in Nineteenth Century Crinoline Cartoons
from Punch.” Dress 23 (1996):
63-74.
“Exhibit of Hoop Skirts Opens in Philadelphia.”
Citizens’ Companion 6 no. 3
(August-September, 1999): 10. [includes photo of 1865 hoop skirt]
Gamble, J. G. “Dressed to Kill:
The Mid-Nineteenth Century Crinoline Craze.”
Pharos of
Alpha Omega Alpha Honor Medical Society
63 no. 1 (Winter 2000): 16-21.
Garoutte, Sally, ed. Undercoverings,
1995. Volume 6 of the Research
Papers of American
Quilt Study Group.
Mill Valley, CA: American
Quilt Study Group, 1986. [includes
article on quilted petticoats]
McKeown, Deborah V. “The Scarlet
Flannel Petticoat: Origin and
Construction of a
Popular Garment.”
Citizens’ Companion 7 no. 3 (August-September 2000):
21-24.
Miller, Beth. “Achieving the Look
of the 1860’s: Starching Your
Underpinnings.” Civil War
Lady 1, no. 6: 19-20.
“Petticoats and Pantalettes: Victorians
Undressed: Wadsworth Atheneum,
Hartford, CT.”
Lady’s Gallery 4 no.
2 (Feb 1997): 44-46. [shows female manikin in mid-19th
century underwear]
“Under Wraps, from Crinoline to Crinoline:
Undergarments 1850 to 1950.” Lady’s
Gallery
v.3 no. 2 (1995): 57, 62.
[review of exhibit at the Kemerer Museum of Decorative
Arts, Bethlehem, PA]
Walkley, Christina. “’Nor Iron
Bars a Cage.’” History Today
25 no. 10 (October 1975):
712-718.
[cage crinolines]
Jewelry,
Watches, and Related Accessories
Armstrong, Nancy. Victorian
Jewelry. New York:
Macmillan Publishing, 1976.
Baker-Anderson, Catherine. “Cameos in Vogue.”
Vintage Fashion 2
no.1 (January-
February 1991):
14-17.
Baker, Lillian. 100 Years of
Collectible Jewelry, 1850-1950. Paducah,
KY: Collector
Books, 1999.
Becker, Vivienne. Antique and Twentieth Century Jewellry:
A Guide for Collectors. 2d
ed. Colchester:
NAG Press, Ltd., 1987.
Bell, Jeanenne. Answers to
Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840 to 1950.
3rd ed.
Florence, Ala: Books Americana, 1985.
Bell, C. Jeanenne. Collector’s Encyclopedia of Hairwork Jewelry:
Identification &
Values.
Paducah, KY: Collector Books, 1998.
Bernstein, Michael J. “Hair
Jewelry, Locks of Love.” Smithsonian
6 no. 12 (1976):
997-100.
Blersch, Stuart. “Victorian
Jewelry Made of Hair.” Nineteenth
Century 6 no. 1 (1980):
42-43.
Bradford, Ernle. English
Victorian Jewellery. London:
Spring Books, 1967.
Bush, Nancy. “The Hair Workers of
Sweden.” Piecework 10 no.
3 (May/June 2002):
34-37.
Byassee, Jean L. "The Civil War Lady's Jewelry." Camp
Chase Gazette 19 no. 8 (July
1992): 42-43.
Byassee, Jean L. “Victorian
Jewelry.” The Lady
Reenactor 1, pp. 20-21, 57.
Byassee, Jean L. “Victorian
Sentimental Jewelry,” Citizens’ Companion 2 no. 2 (June-July
1995): 21.
Campbell, Mark. Self-Instructor
in the Art of Hair Work. New
York: Campbell, 1867.
Cooper, Diana and Norman Battershill. Victorian
Sentimental Jewellery. Newton
Abbot,
England:
David and Charles, 1972.
Ettinger, Roseann. Popular
Jewelry: 1840-1940. 2d ed. Atglen,
PA: Schiffer Pub., 1997.
Fales, Martha Gandy. Jewelry in
America, 1600-1900. Woodbridge,
Suffolk, U.K.:
Antique Collectors’ Club,
1995.
Flower, Margaret (Cameron Coss). Victorian
Jewellery. South Brunswick and
New
York:
A. S. Barnes, 1973.
Gere, Charlotte. European and
American Jewellery: 1830-1914.
London: Heinemann,
1975.
Gilbert, Ruth. “American Jewelry
from the Gold Rush to Art Nouveau.” Art
in America 53
no. 6 (1965-1966):
80-82.
Goldberg, Nancy. Jewelry. New York: Hart
Publishing Co., 1977. [engravings
from
various magazines and historic books.]
Gordon, Ruth. “Remember Me When
Far Away: Victorian Hairwork.”
Piecework 4 no. 2
(March/April 1996):
36-40.
“Hair Braiding.” Piecework
4 no. 2 (March/April 1996): 70.
[instructions for ring]
Harris, Kristina. “Cameo
Collecting.” Vintage Fashion 2 no.4 (August 1991): 39-41.
“Hoopla Over Hoops.” Civil
War Lady no. 18 (Nov. 1996): 4-5.
[hoop earrings]
Hudson River Museum. The
Jeweler’s Eye: Nineteenth-Century
Jewelry in the
Collection of Nancy and Gilbert
Levine. Yonkers:
Hudson River Museum, 1986.
Isaacson, Suzanne Carter. “’A
Comb Upon the Crown of Your Head’: A
‘Crowning Glory’
to a Lady’s Impression.”
Citizens’ Companion 7 no. 4 (October-November 2000):
12-20.
Isaacson, Suzanne Carter. “The
Jewel in the Crown: The Perfect
Finish to Your
Impression.”
Citizens’ Companion 5 no. 5 (December 1998-January 1999):
12-17.
James, Duncan. Old Jewellry.
Aylesbury: Shire
Publications, 1989.
Janson, Dora Jane. “From Slave to
Siren.” ArtNews 70 (1971):
49-53, 68-71. (on
cameos)
Kaplan, Arthur Gay. Antique
Jewelry. 6th ed.
New York: Random House,
1990.
Kirsch, Fritz and Dusty Books. "A Timely Piece." Camp Chase
Gazette 18 no. 8 (July
1991): 22-24. [watches]
Klein, Christine DeBow. “Scottish
Pebble Jewelry.” Vintage Fashion 1 no.6 (November-
December 1990): 35-38.
Kliot, Jules. The Art of
Hairwork. Berkeley, CA: Lacis
Publications, 1989.
Kusnetz, Evelyn S. “With This
Ring: Victorian Wedding Rings.”
Lady’s Gallery 1 no.1
(1993): 21.
Lauramore, Anita. “Jewelry
Accessories for Women, Part I: The
Fan Chatelaine.” Civil
War Lady no. 22 (1999):
10-11.
Lauramore, Anita. “Jewelry
Accessories for Women, Part II: The
Handkerchief Holder.”
Civil War Lady no. 23
(1999): 9-11.
Leopold, Allison Kyle. “The Lost
Art of Victorian Hair Work: What it
Meant to Nineteenth
Century Americans Then...We Think of it
Today” Open Notebook. Victorian
Homes
7 no. 1 (1988): 68-69+.
Luthi, Ann Louise. Sentimental
Jewellery. Princes Risborough,
Buckinghamshire, UK:
Shire Publications, 1998.
Mascetti, Daniela and Amanda Triossi. Earrings,
From Antiquity to the Present. New
York:
Rizzoli International Publications, 1990.
Megill, Andrew M. "The Civil War Era Pocketwatch: A Quality
Addition to an Authentic
Impression." Camp Chase
Gazette 23 no. 9 (August 1996): 34-42.
Mescher, Virginia. “Lady’s
Necessaire or Housekeeper’s Chatelaine.”
Citizens’
Companion 4 no. 3 (August-September
1997): 30-31.
Miller, Anna M. Cameos Old and
New. New York:
Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1991.
Morgan, Daniel. “The Lady and Her
Watch.” Civil War Lady
1 no.2 (1991): 17-19.
Muller, Helen. Jet Jewellery and
Ornaments. Princes Risborough,
Buckinghamshire: Shire
Publications, 1998.
Musser, Mary. “Massachusetts Horn
Smiths: A Century of Comb-Making,
1775-1875.”
Old-Time-New England
58 no. 3-4, 59-68.
Navarro, Irene Gugenheim. “Hairwork
of the Nineteenth Century.” The
Magazine Antiques
159 no. 3 (March 2001):
484-493.
O’Day, Deirdre. Victorian
Jewellery. London:
Charles Letts Books, 1982.
Peter, Mary. Collecting
Victorian Jewellery. New York:
Emerson Books, 1971.
“Reenactresses Recreating the Image.” Civil
War Lady no. 19 (April 1997): 14.
[earrings]
Romero, Christie. Warman’s
Jewelry: A Fully Illustrated Price
Guide to 19th and 20th
Century Jewelry, Including Victorian, Art
Nouveau, and Costume. 2d ed.
Iola,
WI: Krause
Publications, 1998.
Sams, Marion Ruth Young. “Chatelaines.”
Alabama Heritage 44 (1997): 18-21.
Sams, Marion Ruth Young. “Sentimental
and Memorial Jewelry.” Alabama
Heritage 35
(1995):
28-33.
Schwartz, Jeri. “The Flower in
Fashion.” Vintage Fashion,
1 no.6 (November-December
1990): 17-19.
(Posey holders)
Shenton, Alan. Pocket Watches:
19th & 20th Century.
Woodbridge, Suffolk: Antique
Collectors’ Club, 1995.
Sheumaker, Helen. "'This Lock You See': Nineteenty-Century Hair
Work as the
Commodified Self." Fashion
Theory 1 no. 4 (December 1997): 421-446.
Tandberg, Gerilyn G. “Decoration
and Decorum: Accessories of
Nineteenth-Century
Louisiana Women.”
Southern Quarterly 27 no.1 (Fall 1988):
9-31.
Vever, Henri. French Jewelry of
the Nineteenth Century. New
York: Thames &
Hudson, 2001.
Lace
Buck, Anne. Thomas
Lester, His Lace and the East Midlands Industry, 1820-1905.
Ruth
Bean:
Carleton, 1981.
Earnshaw, Pat. How to Recognise
Machine Laces. Guildford:
Gorse, 1995.
Earnshaw, Pat. Lace in Fashion:
From the Sixteenth to the Twentieth Centuries.
New
York:
Drama Book Publishers, 1985.
Gwynne, J. L. The Illustrated
Dictionary of Lace. London:
Batsford, 1997.
Rotella, Kathleen. "Application Lace at the Great Exhibition of
1851." Piecework 9 no. 6
(November/December 2001):
26-29. Includes 1865 wedding dress; 1851 knitted
baby's gown.
Wardle, Patricia. Victorian Lace.
New York: Frederick A.
Praeger, 1969.
Makeup
Duffy, Linda. “To Paint or Not to
Paint? That is the Question.”
Civil War Lady 2 no.11
(1994): 10-11. [makeup]
Kleiger, Estell. “Vanity in the
19th Century.” American
History Illustrated 14 no. 5
(August 1979): 24-33. [makeup]
Mehaffey, Karen Rae. “Facing the
Fact: Cosmetic Use in the 1860s.”
The Watchdog 2
no. 1 (Winter 1994): 4-5.
Mescher, Jen. “On 19th Century
Cosmetics” Civil War Lady no.14 (1995): 21-22.
Peiss, Kathy Lee. Hope in a Jar:
The Making of America’s Beauty Culture.
New York:
Metropolitan, 1998.
Vail, Gilbert. A History of
Cosmetics in America. Prepared
for the Toilet Goods
Association.
New York: Toilet Goods
Association, 1947.
Maternity
Clothing
Danischewsky, Lorraine. “Upon
Encountering a Certain Condition.” Costume
&
Dressmaker no. 1 (1996):
3-4.
Bailey, Rebecca Lou. “Fashions in
Pregnancy: An Analysis of Selected
Cultural Influences,
1850-1980.”
Ph.D. dissertation, Michigan State University, 1981.
Christen, Glenna Jo. “In the
Family Way? Clothing While You’re
Waiting for the ‘Blessed
Event.’”
Citizens’ Companion 6 no. 6 (April-May 1999):
12-16.
Moon, Cassandra Curry. “Selecting
and Adapting Clothing for Pregnancy in the Nineteenth
Century.”
M.S. thesis, Iowa State University, 1995.
Tarrant, Naomi E. A. “A Maternity
Dress of About 1845-50.” Costume
no. 14 (1980):
117-120.
Men’s
Clothing
Adams-Graf, John. “In
Rags for Riches: A Daguerreian
Survey of Forty-Niner’s Clothing.”
Dress 11 (1985):
59-68.
Aldrich, Winired. “Tailor’s
Cutting Manuals and the Growing Provision of Popular Clothing,
1770-1870.”
Textile History 31 no. 2 (November 2000):
163-201.
Baumgarten, Linda R. "Leather Stockings and Hunting Shirts" in American
Material
Culture: The Shape of the Field.
Edited by Ann Smart Martin and J. Ritchie
Garrison. Winterthur,
DE: Winterthur Museum, 1997, pp. 251-276.
Bean, Susan. “Bandanna:
On the Indian Origins of an All-American Textile.”
Annual
Proceedings of the Dublin Seminar for New
England Folklife 22 (1997): 168-183.
Bond, Constance. “The Lure of
Gold.” Smithsonian 28 no.
10 (January 1998): 82-85.
[California 49’ers.]
Brown, William L., III. Thoughts on Men's Shirts in America, 1750-1900.
Gettysburg,
PA: Thomas Publications,
1999.
Byrde, Penelope. The Male Image:
Men’s Fashion in England, 1300-1970.
London: B.
T. Batsford, 1979.
Christen, Bill. “I Put My Foot
Into It (Part One).” The
Watchdog 10 no. 1 (Winter 2002):
5-7.
[shoes and boots]
Christen, Bill. “A New Matrix for
Men’s Attire in the 1860s.” Citizens’
Companion 3 no.4
(October-November 1996):
12-18.
Christen, Bill and Bill “Mac” MacIntosh.
“A Short Sketch of Men’s Attire in the 1860s.”
Citizens’ Companion
1 no.4 (October-November 1994): 10-15.
Colle, Doriece. Collars, Stocks,
Cravats: A History and Costume
Dating Guide to
Civilian Men’s Neckpieces,
1655-1900. Emmaus, PA:
Rodale Press, 1972.
Davis-Meyers, Mary L. “Boston’s
Menswear Garment Workers: The
Impact Tailoresses
and Seamstresses Had on the Emerging
Menswear Ready-Made Clothing Industry,
1820-1860.”
M.A. thesis, University of Connecticut, 1989.
Eckstein, E. Gentlemen’s Dress
Accessories. Aylesbury:
Shire Publications, 1987.
Furnival, Jane. Dumbells, Ear
Caps and Hair Restorers: A
Shopper’s Guide to
Gentlemen’s Foibles, 1800s-1930s.
London: Michael O’Mara
Books, 1999.
Heidel, Lisa Marie. “Men’s
Nineteenth Century Wedding Clothing Found in Historic
Costume Collections.” M.S. thesis, University of Maryland at College Park, 1992.
Henderson, Debbie. “Men’s Hats
of the 1860s.” The Watchdog
7 no. 1 (Winter 1999):
5-7.
Henderson, Debbie. The Top Hat:
An Illustrated History of Its Styling and
Manufacture.
Yellow Springs, OH: Wild
Goose Press, 2000.
Honeyman, Katrina. Well Suited:
A History of the Leeds Clothing Industry, 1850-1990.
Oxford:
Oxford University Press, 2000.
Isaacson, Jon. “From Wells to
Slop Shops: A Study of Men’s
Clothing 1845-1870,
Beginning a Series on Men’s Clothing in
the 19th Century.” Citizens’
Companion 6 no.
6 (February-March 2000):
12-19.
Kuchta, David. The Three-Piece
Suit and Modern Masculinity: England,
1550-1850.
Burkeley:
University of California Press, 2002.
Lassiter, J. A. “The Gentleman
Collector: The Frock Coat.” Vintage Fashion 3 no.2
(March-April 1992):
13-15.
Maglio, Diane. “Luxuriant Crowns:
Victorian Men’s Smoking Caps, 1850-1890.”
Dress 27
(2000):
9-17.
McCulloh, Charlie. “A Look at
Some of the Sam Davis Home Relic Collection.”
The
Watchdog
9 no. 3 (Summer 2001): 14-17. [particularly the printed handkerchief]
McDowell, Colin. The Man of
Fashion: Peacock Males and Perfect
Gentlemen. New
York:
Thames and Hudson, 1997.
Morra, Marissa. “Silent
Informers: Men’s Coats from a
19th Century Period of
Transition.”
Dress 11 (1985): 68-76.
[1846-1870]
Penzig, Edgar F. Fast Squatters,
Gents, and Gamblers: The Dress,
Artifacts and
Weapons of Colonial Men, 1850-1900.
Katoomba, N.S.W.: Tranter
Enterprises,
1995.
Poole, Miriam Rosenkrans. “A
Historical Study of Men’s Costumes as a Reflection of the
Culture in Virginia From 1607-1963.”
M.S. thesis, Virginia Polytechnic Institute, 1964.
Pufpaff, Suzanne. Nineteenth
Century Hat Maker’s and Felter’s Manuals.
Hastings, MI:
Stony Lonesome Press, 1995.
Pugliese, Patri J. “Formal Dress
for Men.” Civil War Lady
no. 18 (November 1996):
19-22.
Rafferty, Lois. “A Brief History
of the United States Sanitary Commission.”
Citizens’
Companion 3 no. 1 (April/May 1996):
16-20. [includes diagram for
hospital cotton
shirt]
Scherer, Joe and Kathy Scherer. “Men’s
Hats of the 1860s—Part Two.” The
Watchdog 7
no. 3 (Summer 1999):
5, 19.
Shade, Laurie. “Shipwreck:
Ansel and Adeline Easton’s Honeymoon Voyage of 1857.”
Dress 27 (2000):
71-77.
Shaw, Thomas G. “1860s Civilian
Shirts for the Soldier.” The
Watchdog 4 no. 4 (Autumn
1996):
2-4.
Shaw, Thomas G. “1860s Civilian
Shirts—An Update.” The
Watchdog 5 no. 1 (Winter
1997):
7.
Shaw, Tim. "Making a Money Belt." Camp Chase Gazette
23 no. 1 (October 1995): 40.
Shaw, William Harlan. American
Men’s Wear, 1861-1982. Baton
Rouge: Oracle Press,
1982.
Shep, R. L. and W. S. Salisbury. Civil
War Gentlemen: 1860s Apparel Arts
&
Uniforms.
Mendocino, CA: R. L. Shep,
1994.
Simmons, Rick. “Dirty Billy’s
Straw Hats & Some Thoughts on 1850-1860s Hats in
General.”
The Watchdog 8 no. 2 (Spring 2000): 11.
Thomas, Michael R. A Confederate
Sketchbook, vol. 1. Elgin, IL:
House of York, 1980.
Time-Life Books. Arms and
Equipment of the Confederacy. Alexandria,
Va: Time-Life
Books, 1991.
[Includes shirts and housewifes—items that were often or usually
produced at home.]
Time-Life Books. Arms and
Equipment of the Union. Alexandria,
VA: Time-Life Books,
1991.
Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men’s
Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theatre
Arts Books,
1964.
Zakim, Michael. “Customizing the
Industrial Revolution: The
Reinvention of Tailoring in the
Nineteenth Century.”
Winterthur Portfolio 33 no. 1 (Spring 1998):
41-58.
Zakim, Michael. “A Ready-Made
Business: The Birth of the Clothing
Industry in America.”
Business History Review
73 no. 1 (1999): 61-90.
Zakim, Michael. “Sartorial
Ideologies: From Homespun to
Ready-Made.” American
Historical Review 106 no. 5 (2001):
1553-1586.
Mormon
Clothing
Anderson, Carma de Jong. “A
Historical Overview of the Mormons and Their Clothing,
1840-1850.”
Ph.D. dissertation, Brigham Young University, 1992.
Clayton, Ruth Vickers. “Clothing
and the Temporal Kingdom: Mormon
Clothing Practices,
1847 to 1887.”
Ph.D. dissertation, Purdue University, 1987.
Fischer, Gayle Veronica. "The Obedient and Disobedient Daughters of
the Church: Strangite
Mormon Dress as a Mode of
Control" in Religion, Dress and the Body. Edited by
Linda Arthur. Oxford:
Berg, 1999, pp. 73-94.
Shumway, Larry V. "Dancing the Buckles Off Their Shoes in Pioneer
Utah." Brigham
Young University Studies 37
(3): 7-50.
Mourning
Dress
Hughes, Susan Lyons. “Crinoline,
Crape, and Corpses: Mourning
Practices in 19th Century
America.”
The Lady Reenactor v.1, pp. 26-29, 62.
Kete, Mary Louise. Sentimental
Collaboration: Mourning and
Middle-Class Identity in
Nineteenth Century America.
Durham, NC: Duke University
Press, 2000.
Laderman, Gary. The Sacred
Remains: American Attitudes Toward
Death, 1799-1883.
New Haven:
Yale University Press, 1996.
Loughridge, Patricia R. and Edward D. C. Campbell, Jr.
Women in Mourning. Richmond:
Museum of the Confederacy,
1985.
Majka, Holly. Life in the Midst
of Death: A Victorian Manual for
Mourning. Ohio:
Golden Cord Clothiers, printed
by Medina Books Publishing, 1996.
Marsh, Heidi. Styles for
Mourning in the Era of the Hoop. Greenville,
CA: by the author,
1996.
Masson, Ann and Bryce Reveley. “When
Life’s Brief Sun Was Set: Portraits
of Southern
Women in Mourning--1830-1860.”
Southern Quarterly 27 no.1 (Fall 1988):
33-56.
Mehaffey, Karen Rae. The
After-Life: Mourning Rituals and
the Mid-Victorians.
Pipestone, MN: Laser Writers Publishing, 1993.
Morley, John. Death, Heaven, and
the Victorians. London:
Studio Vista, 1971.
“Mourning.” Civil War Lady
no. 15 (1995): 16-17.
Pike, Martha V. and Janice Gray Armstrong.
A Time to Mourn: Expressions
of Grief in
Nineteenth Century America.
Stony Brook, NY: The Museums
at Stony Brook,
1980.
Puckle, Bertram S. Funeral
Customs: Their Origin and
Development. London:
T.
Werner Laurie, 1926.
Reprint. Detroit: Singing Tree Press, 1968.
Reveley, Bryce. “The Black Trade
in New Orleans, 1840-1880.” Southern
Quarterly 31
no. 2 (1993):
119-122. [mourning]
Roeschke, Corinna. "Mouring." Camp Chase Gazette 19
no. 2 (November-December
1991): 34.
Taylor, Lou. Mourning Dress: A Costume and Social History. London: George
Allen
and Unwin, 1983.
Needlework
Used on Garments
Dickinson, Carol. “Broderie
Anglaise: An 1860s Ornamental
Work.” Citizens’
Companion 6 no. 2 (June-July 1999):
19-23.
Mescher, Virginia. “Mid-19th
Century Tatting: Needlework
Techniques Then and Now.”
Citizens’ Companion 7
no. 6 (February-March 2001): 12-20.
Miller, Beth. “Broderie Anglaise.”
Civil War Lady 2 no. 11 (1994):
6,8-9.
Northern
U.S. Clothing
Farrell, Jane A. “Clothing for
Adults in Iowa, 1850-1899.” Annals
of Iowa 46 no. 2
(1981):
100-120.
Frisbee-House, Cornelia H. Not
Just Another Pretty Dress: Two
Centuries of Clothing
& Textiles from Cherry Hill.
Albany: Historic Cherry
Hill, 1983.
Gehret, Ellen. Rural
Pennsylvania Clothing. 2d ed. York,
PA: G. Shumway, 1990.
[Useful for stockings, caps,
aprons for early period.]
Gordon, Beverly. “Meanings in
Mid-Nineteenth Century Dress: Images
From New England
Women’s Writings.”
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 10 no. 3 (1992):
44-53.
Helvenston, Sally I. “Fashion and
Function in Women’s Dress in Rural New England:
1840-1900.”
Dress 18 (1991): 26-38.
“In the Museum: An
American Renaissance, Fort Hunter Mansion, Harrisburg, PA” Lady’s
Gallery 2 no.3 (1994): 62-63.
[photos of dresses in collection.]
Jachimowicz, Elizabeth. Eight
Chicago Women and Their Fashions, 1860-1929.
Chicago: Chicago Historical Society, 1978.
Jackson, Donald D. Twenty
Million Yankees: The Northern Home
Front. Alexandria,
VA: Time-Life Publications, 1985.
Turza, Beth. “The Farmer Takes a
Wife: The History of a ca. 1860
Homespun Dress.”
Midwest Open Air Museum
Magazine 9 no. 4 (Winter 1988): 26-29.
[A very
detailed look at the dress of a poor farm
wife.]
Wilson, Kathryn E. "Commodified Craft, Creative Community:
Women's Vernacular Dress
in Nineteenth-Century
Philadelphia" in The Culture of Sewing: Gender, Consumption
and Home Dressmaking.
Edited by Barbara Burman. Oxford: Berg, 1999, pp.
141-156.
Wilson, Kathryn E. "Fashioning Difference: Women's Dress in
Nineteenth-Century
Philadelphia." Ph.D.
dissertation, University of Pennsylvania, 1996. [1825-1885]
Nuns
Dickinson, Carol A. “A
Change of Habit: The Search for
Mother Angela Gillespie.”
Citizens’ Companion 5
no. 2 (June-July 1998): 12-20.
Nurses
Hoisington, Daniel. ‘Women
of Discreet Manners’: Union
Army Nurses and Their Attire.”
Citizens’ Companion 4
no. 5 (December 1997-January 1998): 12-19
Parasols
and Umbrellas
Farrell, Jeremy. Umbrellas
and Parasols. Costume
Accessories Series. New York:
Drama Book Publishers, 1985.
Martin, Elizabeth A. “Distinguishing
Parasols: How to Tell the
Difference Between English
and American Parasols Manufactured Between
1850 and 1870.” M.A. thesis,
Bowling
Green University, 1996.
Morris, Sheila. “Punching Holes
in Period Parasols.” The
Watchdog v.1 no. 1 (Winter
1993): 5-6.
Steinhelper, Layne. “The
Necessary Accessory.” Lady’s
Gallery v. 3 no. 6 (Oct. 1996):
6-11. [includes some information on mid-19th century parasols, and
a fashion print ca.
1850]
Perfumes
Atlas, Michele and Alain Monniot. Guerlain:
Perfume Bottles Since 1828. Toulouse:
Editions Milan, 1997.
Maginnis, Tara. “Perfume for the
Period Scent.” Lady’s
Gallery 2 no. 1 (1994): 21-23.
Wong, J. “Fragrances From the
Past.” Civil War Lady
no. 14 (1995): 15-17.
Photographs
as Sources
Burrows, Adrienne and Ivan Schumacher.
Portraits of the Insane: The
Case of Dr.
Diamond.
New York: Quartet
Books, 1990. [Photographic study of insane and
recovered people.
Very useful for poor people’s clothing, with good look at fabric
patterns, bodice styles, collars, and a
remarkable look at the bottom of a bonnet
because the woman has it on upside down.]
Carlebach, Michael L. Working
Stiffs: Occupational Portraits in
the Age of Tintypes.
Washington, DC:
Smithsonian Institution Press, 2002.
Dalrymple, Priscilla Harris. American
Victorian Costume in Early Photographs.
New
York:
Dover, 1991.
Darrah, William. Cartes de
Visite in Nineteenth Century Photography.
Gettysburg: W.
C. Darrah, 1981.
[Good for studying fashion and hair]
Davis, William C. and Bell I. Wiley, ed. Photographic
History of the Civil War. 2
vols.
New York:
Black Dog and Leventhal Publishers, 1994.
[massive compilation]
Gernsheim, Alison. Victorian and
Edwardian Fashion: A Photographic
Survey. New
York:
Dover Publications, 1981.
Ginsburg, Madeleine. Victorian
Dress in Photographs. New York:
Holmes and Meier,
1982.
Harris, Kristina. American
Victorian Fashions in Vintage Photographs, 1855-1910.
Mineola, NY:
Dover Publications, 2001.
Haworth-Booth, Mark, ed. The
Golden Age of British Photography, 1839-1900.
Millerton, NY:
Aperture, 1984. [ Several good photographs from period showing
clothing]
Heyert, Elizabeth. The
Glasshouse Years: Victorian
Portrait Photography, 1839-1870.
Montclair:
Alanheld & Schram, 1979.
Lambert, Miles. Fashion in
Photographs, 1860-1880. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1991.
Lansdell, Avril. Fashion a la
Carte, 1860-1900: A Study of
Fashion Through
Cartes-de-Visite.
History in Camera Series. Princes
Risborough, Aylesbury, Bucks,
UK: Shire
Publications, 1985.
Mace, O. Henry. Collector’s
Guide to Early Photographs. Radnor,
Penn.:
Wallace-Homestead Book Co.,
1990. [Use for the examples of
photographs from the
period]
McCulloch, Lou W. Card
Photographs: A Guide to Their
History and Value. Exton,
PA: Schiffer
Pub., 1981.
Mehaffey, Karen Rae. “Collecting
the Carte-de-Visite.” Citizens’
Companion 3 no. 1
(April/May 1996):
11-15.
Newberry, Susan Annette. “Commerce
and Ritual in American Daguerreian Portraiture,
1839-1859.”
Ph.D. dissertation, Cornell University, 1999. [may address choice of
clothing for sitters]
Pfister, Harold Francis. Facing
the Light: Historic American
Portrait Daguerreotypes.
Washington:
National Portrait Gallery, 1978.
Reilly, James M. Care and
Identification of 19th-Century Photographic Prints.
Rochester, NY:
Eastman Kodak Company, 1986. [A
few good 1840-1865 examples]
Rinhart, Floyd. The American
Tintype. Columbus:
Ohio State University Press, 1999.
Rinhart, Floyd and Marion Rinhart. The
American Daguerreotype. Athens:
University of
Georgia, 1981.
Sandweiss, Martha A., ed. Historic
Texas: A Photographic Portrait.
Austin: Texas
Monthly Press, 1986.
Smith, Margaret Denton and Mary Louise Tucker.
Photography in New Orleans: The
Early Years, 1840-1865.
Baton Rouge: Louisiana State
University, 1982.
Sobieszek, Robert A. and Odette M. Appel. The
Daguerreotypes of Southworth &
Hawes.
New York: Dover, 1980.
Taft, Robert. Photography and
the American Scene: A Social
History: 1839-1889.
New York:
Dover, 1964.
Wichard, Robin. Victorian Cartes
de Visite. Princes Risborough:
Shire, 1999.
Wood, John. The Daguerreotype:
A Sesquicentennial Celebration.
Des Moines:
University of Iowa Press,
1989.
Younger, Dan. Photography With a
New Face: The Advent of the Carte
de Visite in
American Culture.
United States: by the
author?, 1981.
Prostitutes
Reese, Annette J. “Where
the Boys Are: Prostitution from the
Mining Camps to Civil War
Encampments.”
Citizens’ Companion 4 no. 6 (February-March 1998):
12-18.
Purses
Barnes, Galer Britton. “A
Matter of Fashion: Beaded Bags of
the Civil War Era.”
Piecework 2 no.3 (May/June 1994):
48-51.
Bury, Lynne. “A Tisket a Tasket:
There’s More to Carry than Just a Basket.”
Civil War
Lady no. 23 (1999):
24-27.
Camacho, Joyce Marie. “Indispensables:
Pockets, Purses, Bag and Pouches.” Vintage
Fashion 1 no.3 (May/June 1990): 42-47.
Foster, Vanda. Bags and Purses.
Costume Accessories Series. London:
B. T. Batsford,
1982.
Fournier, Jane. “A Beaded Bag to
Knit.” Piecework 2 no.3 (May/June 1994): 52-53.
Haertig, Evelyn. Antique Combs
& Purses. Carmel, CA:
Gallery Graphics Press, 1983.
Jones, Janice. “Bags, Bags, Bags,
by Any Other Name Would Still Come in Handy
When…”
The Watchdog 7 no. 4 (Fall 1999):
6-8.
Lago, Ann Marie. “Collecting
Beaded Purses.” Vintage
Fashion 1 no.3 (May/June 1990):
30-35.
Murphy, Vivian. “Bags, Baskets,
Reticules or Pockets?” Citizens’
Companion 4 no. 5
(December 1997-January 1998):
30-32.
Rosenthal, Harriet Stern. “Collecting
Cut Steel Purses.” Vintage
Fashion 1 no.4
(July/August 1990):
50-55.
Quaker
Clothing
Lee-Whitman, Leanna. “Silks
and Simplicity: A Study of Quaker
Dress as Depicted in
Portraits, 1718-1855.” Ph.D.
dissertation, University of Pennsylvania, 1987.
Rainwear
Isaacson, Jon. “Polite
Inquiries.” Citizens’
Companion 2 no. 4
(October/November
1995):
32. [response to letter
about rainwear]
“Manufacture of India-Rubber Shoes.” Chambers’
Journal of Popular Literature, Science
and Arts 28 (1858): 165-168.
Williams, Jacqueline. “India
Rubber Kept Them Dry.” Overland
Journal 14 no. 1 (1996):
4-8. [1840s and 1850s]
Woshner, Mike. India-Rubber and
Gutta-Percha in the Civil War Era. Alexandria,
VA:
O’Donnell Publications,
1999.
Sewing
Farrell-Beck, Jane. “Use
of Patented Sewing Devices in a Sample of Manufactured
Garments Dated ca. 1860-1900.”
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 10 no. 3
(1992):
3-11.
Fenster, J. M. “Seam Stresses.”
American Heritage of Invention & Technology 9 no. 3
(1994):
40-52.
Fernandez, Nancy Page. “’If a
Woman Had Taste . . . ‘: Home
Sewing and the Making of
Fashion, 1850-1910.”
Ph.D. dissertation, University of California, Irvine, 1987.
A Lady. The Lady’s Guide to
Plain Sewing. Springfield, OH: Kannik’s Korner, 1993.
A Lady. The Workwoman’s Guide.
Containing Instructions to the Inexperienced in
Cutting Out and Completing Those
Articles of Wearing Apparel, etc., Which are
Usually Made at Home...1838
Reprint. Guildford, Ct:
Opus Publications, 1987.
[useful for underwear, caps,
etc.]
Lopez, Judith. “Buttonholes:
Some Differences in Gender-Related Front Closures.”
Dress
20 (1993):
74-78.
Miller, Beth. “Achieving the Look
of the 1860’s: Reproducing Civil
War Clothing.” Civil
War Lady 2 no. 7 (1993): 9-10.
Miller, Beth. “Day Dress
Bodices.” Civil War Lady 2
no. 12 (1994): 4-6.
Miller, Beth. “No More Cartridge
Pleats.” Civil War Lady 2
no.8 (1993): 13-14.
Miller, Beth. “Period Sewing
Techniques Make Your Clothing Accurate.”
Civil War Lady
no.16 (1996):
4-6, 8-10. [piping]
Miller, Beth. “Pleating a Civil
War Skirt.” Civil War Lady
no. 17 (1996): 5-7,9-10.
Miller, Beth. “’Under’
Construction.” Civil War Lady
1 no.4 (1992) 9-10. [seams on
underwear]; Part II 1 no. 5, 11-12
[placket and waistband].
Mohanty, Gail Fowler. “The Sewing
Machine—‘The Queen of Inventions,’ an Exhibition at
Slater Mill Historic Site, Pawtucket,
Rhode Island.” Technology and
Culture 28 no. 4
(1987):
839-841.
Murphy, Vivian. “The Look is in
the Fit: Properly Fitting a Civil
War Era Bodice.” Citizens’
Companion 5 no. 3 (August-September
1998): 21-24.
Pullan, Mrs. Marion M. Beadle’s
Dime Guide to Dress-Making and Millinery.
New
York:
Beadle & Co., 1863. Reprint
ed. West Chester, PA:
Sullivan Press, 1996.
Schmitt, Carolann. “Trimmings and
Embellishments: The Finishing Touch
for Your Civil War
Dress.”
Citizens’ Companion 5 no. 1 (April-May 1999):
12-20.
Smith, Mary Denise. “Pinkers,
Pounces, and Punches: Slashing Your
Fabrics in Period
Fashion.”
Costume & Dressmaker no. 1 (1996):
10-11.
Yearous, Jenny. “Stitches in
Time: The Development of Sewing
Thread in the Nineteenth
Century and Beyond.”
Uncoverings 19 (1998): 155-178.
York, Kathleen A. “Creating a
Civil War Outfit.” Civil War
Lady 1 no. 1 (May/June
1991):
12-14; 1 no. 2 (1991): 9-10.
York, Kathleen A. “Trims for
Civil War Clothing.” Civil War
Lady 1 no.3 (1992): 10-13.
York, Kathleen A. “20th Century
Sewing Techniques vs. 19th Century Clothing.” Civil War
Lady 1 no.4 (1992): 11-12.
Shaker
Clothing
Hughes, Susan Lyons. “With
Hands to Work and Hearts to God.” Citizens’
Companion 3
no. 4 (October-November 1996):
21-28. [includes 1857
illustrations]
Sorge, Lynn. “The Evolution of
Nineteenth-Century Shaker Dresses: Reflections
of the
World.”
Dress 21 (1994): 39-60.
Shawls
Ames, Frank. The Kashmir
Shawl and Its Indo-French Influence. Woodbridge,
Suffolk:
Antique Collector’s Club,
1986.
Atira-Soncea, Rae. An Intricacy
of Design: Kashmir Shawls in the
Helen Allen Textile
Collection.
Madison, WI: University
of Wisconsin-Madison, 1990.
Blair, Matthew. The Paisley
Shawl and the Men Who Produced It: A
Record of an
Interesting Epoch in the History of
the Town. Paisley, Scotland: Alexander Gardner,
1904.
Brett, David. “The Management of
Colour: The Kashmir Shawl in a
Nineteenth-Century
Debate.”
Textile History 29 no. 2 (Autumn 1998):
123-133.
Buie, S. “The Kashmir Shawl.”
Asian Art & Culture 9 (Spring/Summer 1996):
38-51.
Bury, Lynne. “Victorian Shawls: Not Just for Warmth.”
Civil War Lady no. 22 (1999):
14-18.
Clabburn, Pamela. The Norwich
Shawl: Its History and a Catalogue
of the Collection at
Stangers Hall Museum,
Norwich. London:
HMSO, 1995.
Clabburn, Pamela. Shawls.
Princes Risborough: Shire
Publications, 1981, 1986, 2002.
Irwin, John. The Kashmir Shawl.
London: Her Majesty’s
Stationery Office, 1973.
Kelly, C. “Crazy for Paisley [Two
Shows of Paisley Shawls: Philadelphia
Museum of Art;
Rhode Island School of Design, Providence]
Art & Antiques 19 (December 1996):
37-38+.
Levi-Strauss, Monique. The
Cashmere Shawl. New York:
Abrams, 1987.
Levi-Strauss, Monique. Il
Cashemire: Indian and European
Shawls. S.l.:
Ratti, Elli e
Pagani, 1995.
Levi-Strauss, Monique. The
Romance of the Cashmere Shawl. Ahmedabad:
Mapin
Publishing in Association with Mapin
International, New York, 1987.
Mackrell, Alice. Shawls, Stoles
and Scarves. Costume
Accessories Series. London: B. T.
Batsford, 1986.
Reilly, Valerie. The Paisley
Pattern: The Official Illustrated
History. Salt Lake City:
Peregrine Smith Books, 1987.
Schmitt, Carolann. “Summer
Mantles and Shawls.” Citizens’
Companion 3 no. 3
(August-September 1996):
12-14.
Stewart, A. M. The History &
Romance of the Paisley Shawl. Glasgow,
n.p., 1946.
Reprint ed.
Paisley, Scotland: Paisley Museum and Art Galleries, 1978.
Why Paisley? Paisley:
Paisley Museum & Art Galleries, 1985.
Whyte, Dorothy. “Edinburgh Shawls
and Their Makers.” Costume
10 (1976): 16-28.
Worth, Susannah. “Embroidered
China Crepe Shawls, 1800-1870.” M.S.
thesis, University
of Rhode Island, 1986.
Shoes
Baynes, Ken and Kate Baynes, ed. The
Shoe Show: British Shoes Since 1790.
The Crafts
Council, 1979.
Carlton, Craig. “Homemade
Shoes,” Foxfire 10. New York: Doubleday,
1993, pp.
11-15.
Christen, Glenna Jo. “Polite
Inquiries.” [response to letter
on ladies’ shoes]. Citizens’
Companion 2, no. 4 (October/November
1995): 33.
Coleman, Dorothy and Evelyn Jane Coleman. “Designs
for Making an Applique Slipper, Plus
a Patriotic Bed Quilt from the July 1861
Issue of Peterson’s Magazine.” Vintage
Fashion 3 no.2 (March/April 1992):
47-48.
Coleman, Dorothy and Evelyn Jane Coleman. “Ladies’
and Gentlemen’s Berlin Work
Slippers.” Vintage Fashion
2 no. 5 (September/October, 1991): 42-44.
Disney, Rosemary Elizabeth. “Stepping
Lightly: The Romance of the
Shoe.” Lady’s Gallery
3 no. 5 (August 1996):
18-23, 57. [includes photos
of ladies boots 1845, 1850, 1854]
Every Lady Her Own Shoemaker, or, a Complete Self-Instructor in the Art of
Making
Gaiters and Shoes.
New York: DeWitt and
Davenport, 1856. Reprint. Davenport,
Iowa: Amazon Drygoods, 1989.
Greig, T. Watson. Ladies’
Old-Fashioned Shoes. Edinburgh,
Scotland: D. Douglas, 1885.
[Hughes, Susan Lyons]. “Ruby or
Glass?--Searching for Correct Women’s Shoes.”
The
Watchdog 3
no. 4 (Autumn 1995): 4.
Ladies’ Dress Shoes of the Nineteenth Century:
With Sixty-Three Illustrations.
Edinburg:
D. Douglas, 1900.
Rexford, Nancy. Women’s Shoes
in America, 1795-1930. Kent,
OH: Kent State
University Press, 2000.
Sneathen, Brenda. “The
Fashionable Foot: A Show of Shoes,
1850-1950.” Vintage
Fashion 1 no.5 (September/October
1990): 20-25.
Swann, June. Shoes. Costume Accessories Series.
London: B. T. Batsford,
1982.
Shopping
Adburgham, Alison. Shops and
Shopping 1800-1914: Where, and in
What Manner the
Well-Dressed Englishwoman Bought
Her Clothes. 2d ed.
London: Allen and
Unwin, 1981.
London: Barrie &
Jenkins, 1989.
Slave
Clothing
Baumgarten, Linda. “Plains, Plaid
and Cotton: Woolens for Slave
Clothing.” Ars Textrina
15 (1991):
203-221.
Campbell, Edward D. C., Jr., ed. Before
Freedom Came: African-American Life
in the
Antebellum South.
Richmond: Museum of the
Confederacy, 1991.
Durand, Sally Graham. “The Dress
of the Ante-bellum Field Slave in Louisiana and
Mississippi from 1830 to 1860.”
M.A. thesis, Louisiana State University, 1977.
Foster, Helen Bradley. New
Raiments of Self: African American
Clothing in the
Antebellum South.
New York: Berg, 1997.
Fry, Gladys-Marie. Stitched from
the Soul: Slave Quilts from the
Ante-Bellum South.
New York:
Dutton Studio Books, 1990. [Several
photographs of slaves, 1859 child’s
petticoat, three piece wool suit, 1845
white homespun slave woman’s wedding gown,
two sewing bags, plus quilts and
coverlets]
Hawkes, Alta Marcellus. “Food,
Clothing and Shelter of the American Slave.” Ph.D.
dissertation, Southern Methodist
University, 1936.
Hunt, Patricia K. “Fabric
Production in the 19th Century African American Slave
Community.”
Ars Textrina 15 (1991): 83-92.
Hunt, Patricia K. “Osnaburg
Overalls, Calico Frocks, and Homespun Suits:
The Use of 19th
Century Georgia Newspaper Notices to
Research Slave Clothing and Textiles.”
Clothing and Textiles Research
Journal 14 no. 3 (1996): 200-eoa.
Hunt, Patricia K. “The Struggle
to Achieve Individual Expression Through Clothing and
Adornment:
African American Women Under and After Slavery” in Discovering the
Women in Slavery. Edited by Patricia Morton.
University of Georgia Press, 1996.
Hunt, Patricia K. “Textile
Fragments Recovered from a Slave Cemetery in South Carolina.”
Ars Textrina 22
(December 1994): 87-105.
Hunt-Hurst, Patricia. “’Round
Homespun Coat & Pantaloons of the Same’:
Slave Clothing
as Reflected in Fugitive Slave
Advertisements in Antebellum Georgia.” Georgia
Historical Quarterly 83 no. 4 (1999):
727-740.
Sanders, Eulanda Annette. “African-American
Slave Appearance: Cultural Analysis
of Slave
Women’s Narratives.”
Ph.D. dissertation, University of Nebraska, Lincoln, 1997.
Stachiw, Myron O. Negro Cloth:
Northern Industry and Southern Slavery.
[North
Andover, Mass.:
Merrimack Valley Textile Museum, 1981.]
Starke, Barbara M. “Nineteenth-Century
African-American Dress” in Dress in American
Culture.
Edited by Patricia Cunningham and Susan Voso Lab.
Bowling Green, OH:
Bowling Green State University
Popular Press, 1993, pp. 66-79.
Tandberg, Gerilyn G. “Dress-Up
Clothes for Field Slaves of Ante-Bellum Louisiana and
Mississippi.”
Costume 15 (1981): 40-48.
Tandberg, Gerilyn G. “Field Hand
Clothing in Louisiana and Mississippi During the
Ante-Bellum Period.” Dress 5 (1980): 89-104.
Wares, Lydia Jean. “Dress of the
African American Woman in Slavery and Freedom,
1500-1935.”
Ph.D. dissertation, Purdue University, 1981.
White, Shane and Graham White. “’Every
Grain is Standing for Itself’: African-American
Style in the Nineteenth and Twentieth
Centuries.” Australian
Cultural History 13
(1994): 111-128.
White, Shane and Graham White. “Slave
Clothing and African-American Culture in the
Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries.”
Past and Present 148 (August 1995):
149-186.
White, Shane and Graham White. “Slave
Hair and African-American Culture in the
Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries.”
Journal of Southern History 61 (1995):
45-76.
White, Shane and Graham White. Stylin’:
African American Expressive Culture from Its
Beginning to the Zoot Suit.
Ithaca: Cornell University
Press, 1998.
Southern
U.S. Clothing
Betts, Vicki. "The Lena Dancy Homespun Dress: An Example of the
Patriotic Homespun Dress."
Citizens' Companion 9 no. 4
(October-November 2002): 18-23.
Betts, Vicki. "'They Call It Patriotism': Homespun as Politics
in the South, 1860-1861." Citizens'
Companion 9 no. 4
(October-November 2002): 12-17.
Channing, Steven A. Confederate
Ordeal: The Southern Home Front.
Alexandria, Va.:
Time-Life Books, 1984.
[See photographs and artwork]
Cocke, Doris Lanier. “A
Historical Study of Women’s Costumes as a Reflection of the
Culture in Virginia from 1608-1900.”
M.S. thesis, Virginia Polytechnic Institute, 1962.
DuPont, Ann. “Textile and Apparel
Management Functions Performed by Women in the
Nineteenth Century Plantation South.”
Ars Textrina 18 (1992): 51-61.
Hague, Parthenia. A Blockaded
Family: Life in Southern Alabama
During the Civil
War.
Boston: Riverside Press,
1888. Reprint.
Lincoln: University of
Nebraska,
1991.
No pictures, but excellent description of Southern homespun process.
Hay, Elzey. "Dress Under Difficulties; or, Passages from the Blockade
Experience of Rebel Women."
Godey's Lady's Book and
Magazine 73 (July, 1866): 32-37. Contributed by Jan Stofferna
to Citizens’ Companion 8 no. 5
(December 2001-January 2002): 30-37.
Hooper, Susan E. McFarland. “Rural
Dress in Southwestern Missouri Between 1860 and
1880.”
M.S. thesis, Iowa State University, 1976.
Koontz, Marcy Leigh. “The Costume
Collection at the Goodwood Plantation, Tallahassee,
Florida:
One Hundred and Fifty Years of the Most Intimate Possessions of Margaret
Wilson Hodges Hood and Her Family,
1825-1975.” Ph.D. dissertation,
Florida State
University, 1995.
Leisch, Juanita. “The Myth-Story
of Scarlet O’Hara, or Notes on How Not to Portray a
Southern Woman.”
Civil War Lady 1 no.3 (1992): 5-8.
Life Threads: Clothing Fashions
in Early Arkansas, 1810-1870. Little
Rock: Arkansas
Territorial Restoration, 1989.
Marks, Paula Mitchell. Hands to
the Spindle: Texas Women and Home
Textile
Production, 1822-1880.
College Station: Texas
A&M University Press, 1996.
Massey, Mary Elizabeth. Ersatz
in the Confederacy. Columbia:
University of South
Carolina Press, 1952, 1993.
[Includes clothing in the South]
Mescher, Virginia and Michael Mescher. “’The
Burial of Latane’ The Role of
Women in the
War.”
Citizens’ Companion 3 no. 3 (August-September 1996):
21-27. [includes
b&w copy of painting]
Mills, Betty J. Calico
Chronicle: Texas Women and Their
Fashions, 1830-1910.
Lubbock:
Texas Tech University, 1985.
Ordonez, Margaret Thompson. “A
Frontier Reflected in Costume, Tallahassee, Leon
County, Florida:
1824-1861.” Ph.D.
dissertation, Florida State University, 1977.
Ordonez, Margaret Thompson. “Plantation
Self- Sufficiency in Leon County, Florida:
1824-1860.”
Florida Historical Quarterly 60 no. 4 (1982):
428-439.
Puryear, Pamela Ashworth. Dressing
Victorian: Being a Brief Overview
of Women’s
Victorian Clothing in Texas,
1837-1900, with Notes on Recreation of the Styles.
Brenham, TX: Herrmann Print Shop, 1987.
Ramsey, Bets and Merikay Waldvogel. Southern
Quilts: Surviving Relics of the
Civil
War.
Nashville, TN: Rutledge Hill
Press, 1998. [homespun dress and
skirts on pp.
32-34].
Stamper, Anita. “One Woman’s
Work: Clothing the Family in
Nineteenth-Century
Mississippi.”
Southern Quarterly 27 (Fall 1988):
95-104.
Sport
Clothing
Bartsch, Donna and Patricia Trautman. “Skirts
for the Nineteenth-Century American
Equestrienne.”
Dress 13 (1987): 21-32.
Gallery of English Costume: Costume
for Sport. Manchester:
Art Galleries Committee,
1963.
Leslie, Judith Elaine. "Sports Fashions as a Reflection of the
Changing Role of American
Women in Society from 1850 to
1920." Ph.D. dissertation, University of North
Carolina, Greensboro, 1986.
Marsh, Heidi, comp. Ladies’
Sports of the Era of the Hoop. Livermore,
CA: by the
author, 1993.
Marsh, Heidi, comp. Riding
Habits of the Era of the Hoop. Livermore,
CA: by the
author, 1987.
Warner, Patricia Campbell. “Clothing
the American Woman for Sport and Physical
Education, 1860 to 1940: Public and Private.” Ph.D.
dissertation, University of
Minnesota, 1986.
Stockings
and Socks
Bury, Lynn. “The
Importance of Knitting in the American Civil War.”
Civil War Lady no.
21 (1999):
18-19.
Farrell, Jeremy. Socks and
Stockings. Costume Accessories
Series. London:
Batsford,
1982.
Grass, Milton N. History of
Hosiery: From the Piloi of Ancient
Greece to the Nylons of
Modern America.
New York: Fairchild
Publications, 1955.
Hawthorne, Rosemary. Stockings
and Suspenders: A Quick Flash.
London: Souvenir
Press, 1993.
Hughes, Nicky. “...From Head to
Toe, Sock It To Me.” The Watchdog
4 no. 1 (Winter
1996):
7.
“Proper Prudence.” Civil War Lady 20 (1997):
18. [light or dark colored stockings and
shoes]
White, J. Andrew, Robin Nelson, and Kate Thomas.
“Socks for the Army: Re-Discovering
a Domestic Art.”
Citizens’ Companion 3 no. 3 (August-September 1996):
16-18.
Swimsuits
“Bathing Dresses.” Citizens’ Companion 6 no. 3
(August-September 1999): 38. [taken
from Peterson’s Magazine, August 1856].
Bosker, Gideon and Lena Lencek. Making
Waves: Swimsuits & the
Undressing of
America.
San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1988.
Harris, Kristina. “The Shaping of
Bathing Beauties.” Lady’s
Gallery 1 no.2 (1993): 20-28.
Johns, Maxine James. “Women’s
Functional Swimwear, 1860-1920.” Ph.D.
dissertation,
Iowa State University, 1997.
Johns, Maxine James and Jane Farrell-Beck. “’Cut Out the Sleeves’: Nineteenth-Century
U.S. Women Swimmers and Their Attire.”
Dress 28 (2001): 53-63.
Kidwell, Claudia. Women’s
Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States.
United States National Museum
Bulletin, no. 250. Washington, DC: Smithsonian
Institution Press, 1968.
Textiles
Aronstein, B. Textiles and
Decorations of the Second Quarter of the Nineteenth
Century.
New York: B. Aronstein,
1933.
Bassett, Lynne Zacek. Textiles
for Clothing of the Early Republic, 1800-1850:
A
Workbook of Swatches and Information. Arlington, VA: Q
Graphics Production
Co., 2001.
Brackman, Barbara. Clues in the
Calico: A Guide to Identifying and
Dating Antique
Quilts. McLean, VA: EPM
Publications, 1989. [Good for
identifying appropriate
cotton prints and colors]
Clagg, Penny Ho. “A Closer Look
at Homespun Fabrics: A Guide to
What Was Available
Then and What is Available Now.”
Citizens’ Companion 4 no. 3 (August-September
1999):
32-35.
Connolly, Loris and Agatha Huepenbecker. “Home
Weaving in Southeast Iowa,
1833-1870.”
Annals of Iowa 48 no. 1-2 (1985):
3-31.
Cozart, Dorothy. “Handwork of the
Women of One Southern Family.”
Uncoverings 13
(1992):
61-84.
Crawford, Barbara and Lyle Royster, Jr. “Yarn
is My Currency: Textiles in
Rockbridge
County, 1739-1857.”
Virginia Cavalcade 45 no. 4 (1996):
148-163.
Dickerson, Sara Hollis. “Accounts
of the Total Clothmaking Process in the South on
Plantations During the Period Immediately
Before Emancipation as Told to Interviewers
in the Nineteen-Thirties During WPA.”
Typescript, Indiana University, 1980.
Dronsfield, Alan and John Edmonds. The
Transition from Natural to Synthetic Dyes:
1856-1920.
Little Chalfont: J. Edmonds, 2001.
Ford, Benjamin Peter. “A
Profitable and Creditable Establishment: Industrial
Textile
Manufacturing and Capitalist Relations of
Production in the Antebellum Central Virginia
Piedmont.”
Ph.D. dissertation, University of Virginia, 1998.
Forrester, Misha P. “Aniline Dye
Chemistry in the Textile Industry: The
Introduction and
Response in America, 1858-1870.”
M.S. thesis, University of Massachusetts at
Amherst, 1994.
Fox, Robert and Agusti Nieto-Galan. Natural
Dyestuffs and Industrial Culture in Europe,
1750-1880.
Canton, MA: Science History
Publications, 1999.
Goody, S. Rabbit. “Jean?
Satinette? Fustian?”
Citizens’ Companion 3 no. 1 (April/May
1996):
27-28.
Greene, Susan W. “Service with
Style: Indigo, Manganese Bronze,
and Hoyle’s Purple
Dress Prints, 1800-1855.”
Dress 26 (1999): 17-30.
Greene, Susan W. Textiles for
Early Victorian Clothing, 1850-1880: A
Workbook of
Swatches & Information.
Arlington, VA: Q Graphics
Production Co., 2002.
Griffin, Richard and Diffee W. Standard. “The
Cotton Textile Industry in Ante-Bellum North
Carolina. Part 2: An Era
of Boom and Consolidation, 1830-1860.” The
North
Carolina Historical Review 34 (April
1957): 131-164.
Kiracofe, Roderick. The American
Quilt: A History of Cloth and
Comfort, 1750-1950.
New York: Clarkson Potter, 1993. [See
chapter on “Fabrics”]
Kurasz, Lisa. “Understanding
Fabrics.” The Lady
Reenactor v.1, pp. 43-46.
Lipsett, Linda Otto. Pieced from
Ellen’s Quilt. Dayton, OH:
Halstead & Meadows,
1991.
[good color closeups of quilt fabrics for this period]
Lohrenz, Mary Edna. “Two Lives
Intertwined on a Tennessee Plantation: Textile
Production
in the Diary of Narcissa L. Erwin
Black.” Southern Quarterly 27 no. 1 (Fall 1988):
72-93.
Lohrenz, Mary Edna and Anita Miller Stamper.
Mississippi Homespun: Nineteenth
Century Textiles and the Women Who Made
Them. Jackson, Miss:
Dept. of
Archives and History, 1989. [color photo
of homespun dress]
McClew, Jean Margaret. “Production
and Use of Textiles in the United States During the
Nineteenth Century.”
M.A. thesis, University of Washington, 1939.
Meller, Susan and Joost Elffers. Textile
Designs: Two Hundred Years of
European and
American Patterns.
New York: Harry N. Abrams,
1991. [The Bible for identifying
correct prints for the 19th
century—absolutely wonderful!]
Mescher, Virginia. “What Color Is
It?” Citizens’ Companion
3 no. 6 (February-March
1997):
14-22. [how colors photograph using period techniques]
Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles
in America, 1650-1870. New
York: W. W. Norton,
1983. [dictionary of types of fabrics, heavily 18th century but
still useful]
Nieto-Galan, Agusti. Colouring
Textiles: A History of Natural
Dyestuffs in Industrial
Europe.
Boston: Kluwer Academic,
2001.
19th Century European Textiles, v. 1, Dyeing, Weaving and Wallpaper.
Tokyo: Bijutsu
Shuppan-Sha, 1987.
[good illustrations, but not specifically dated]
On, Maola L. “Beaver Cloth.” Civil War Lady no. 22 (1999): 12.
Parry, Linda. The Victoria &
Albert Museum’s Textile Collection: British
Textiles from
1850 to 1900.
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