BOOKS,
ARTICLES, AND DISSERTATIONS ON CLOTHING,
1840-1865
Compiled by Vicki Betts
Updated July 8, 2002
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Scope:
English language books, articles, CD-ROMS, calendars, theses, and
dissertations on the civilian clothing of men, women, and children, 1840-1865,
focusing primarily on the United States, Great Britain, and Canada.
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To purchase individual issues or
reprints from Citizens’ Companion, The Watchdog, or Civil War
Lady, please contact:
Citizens’ Companion
The Watchdog
Joy Melcher
P.O. Box 707 P.O. Box 1675
Civil War Lady
Marietta, OH 45750
Warren MI 48090-1675
P.O. Box 531
Clarinda IA 51632
For all other materials, please visit your local library, and if it does not have the items, inquire about interlibrary loan.
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Aprons
Bowling, Elizabeth. “How
to Make a Dressy Gauged Apron.” Citizens’
Companion 6 no.
4 (October-November 1999):
26-30.
Miller, Beth. “Soutache & the
Braided Aprons.” Civil War
Lady no. 15 (1995): 4-8.
Ballroom
Attire
Aldrich, Elizabeth. From the Ballroom to Hell:
Grace and Folly in Nineteenth Century
Dance.
Evanston, Ill.: Northwestern University Press, 1991. [Includes dress.]
Grimble, Frances. “Making
Costumes for Victorian Balls.” Vintage
Fashion 2 no.1
(January/February 1991):
44-49.
Guinca, Mary. “Fancy That!
Victorian Costume Balls.” Lady’s
Gallery 3 no. 2 (1995):
25-30.
Guinca, Mary. “Party Dresses.”
Lady’s Gallery 1 no.3 (1993):
4-9.
Miller, Beth. “The Ballgown.”
Civil War Lady 2 no.9 (1993): 2-5.
Miller, Beth. “Ballgown Bodice
Construction.” Civil War Lady
2 no.10 (1994): 4-7.
On, Maola. “Les Grande Toilets
des Balles.” Civil War Lady
no. 23 (1999): 15-18,
21-22.
Szatkowski, Karen J. “What Shall
I Wear to the Christmas Ball?” Citizens’
Companion 2
no. 5 (December 1995/January 1996):
18-20.
Wong, J. M. “My Museum Find.” Civil War Lady 1 no.1 (May/June 1991):
23. [silk ball
gown]
Bloomers
and Reform Dress
Bennett, Paul W. “’Who Wore the
Pants?’ Dress, Gender and Power,
1850-1914.”
History and Social Science
Teacher 25 no. 4 (1990): 221-225.
Coon, Anne C. “The
Bloomer Costume: Fashion Reform,
Folly, and ‘Intellectual Slavery.’”
Rochester History 57 (3)
1995: 18-24, 28.
Cyr, Paul Albert. “The Progress
of Bloomerism.” Spinner:
People and Culture in
Southeastern Massachusetts 5 (1996):
134-141.
Fischer, Gayle V. “Clothes Make
the Woman: The National Dress
Reform Association,
1856-1865.”
M. A. thesis, Sarah Lawrence College, 1987.
Fischer, Gayle V. “Dressing to
Please God: Pants-Wearing Women in
Mid-Nineteenth
Century Religious Communities.”
Communal Societies 15 (1995):
55-74.
Fischer, Gayle V. “’Pantalets’
and “Turkish Trowsers’: Designing
Freedom in the
Mid-Nineteenth-Century United States.”
Feminist Studies 23
no. 1 (1997): 111-140.
Fischer, Gayle V. Pantaloons and
Power: A Nineteenth-Century Dress
Reform in the
United States.
Kent, OH: Kent State
University, 2001.
Fischer, Gayle v. “’She Ought
to be a Female-Man’: Dress Reform
in the Oneida
Community, 1848-1879.”
Mid-America 77 no. 3 (1995):
237-265.
Foote, Shelly. “Bloomers.”
Dress 5 (1980): 1-12.
Henshaw, Betty Lou. “The Bloomer
Costume: The Woman’s Dress Reform
Movement of
the 1850’s.”
M.S. thesis, University of Colorado, 1955.
Kesselman, Amy. “The ‘Freedom
Suit’: Feminism and Dress Reform
in the United States,
1848-1875.”
Gender & Society 5 no. 4 (1991):
495-510.
Komski, Elizabeth, “Fashion’s Foes: Dress
Reform from 1850-1900.” M.A.
thesis, College
of William and Mary, 2001.
Kriebl, Karen J. “From Bloomers
to Flappers: The American Dress
Reform Movement,
1840-1920.”
Ph.D. dissertation, Ohio State University, 1998.
Merritt, M. Angeline. “Dress
Reform Practically and Physiologically Considered; With Plates,
Illustrations, Opinions of the Press and
the Private Testimony of Various Prominent
Individuals.”
Buffalo: Jewett, Thomas,
1852. 2 sheets.
Nelson, Jennifer Ladd. "Dress Reform and the Bloomer." Journal
of American &
Comparative Cultures 23 no. 1
(2000): 21-25.
Palmer, Heather. “Mobility or
Tranquility: Bloomer’s.”
Lady’s Gallery 1
no.5 (1994):
65-69.
Rice, Carla. “Fashion, Feminism
and Conflict: The Politics of Dress
Reform from 1850 to
1914.”
M.A. thesis, Harvard University, 1985.
Shaw, Barbara Lorraine. “Contested
Ideologies: Gender and Social
Change in the
Mid-Nineteenth Century Women’s
Dress Reform Movement.” M.A.
thesis, University
of Maryland at College Park, 1995.
Smith, Gerrig. “To the Reform
Dress Association: Peterboro, May
18th 1857.”
[Peterboro?, NY:
s.n., 1957]. one sheet.
Sprinthall, Carolyn. “Nineteenth
Century Dress Reform: Changing the
Shapes of Women’s
Lives.”
Honors paper, Duke University, 1986.
Tinling, Marion. “Bloomerism
Comes to California.” California
History 61 no. 1 (1982):
18-25.
Van Bellegham, Patricia. “Dressing
the Part: Women’s Dress Reform,
1848-1861.” B.A.
thesis, California Polytechnic State
University, 2001.
Bonnets,
Hats, Sunbonnets, Caps, Hoods, and Nets
Amneus, Cynthia. “Cynthia Amneus,
Costume Technician, Re-Creates a Spoon Bonnet,
1861-1864.” Lady’s Gallery 3 no. 4 (1996): 12-14.
Amneus, Cynthia. “Summertime
Spoons: Bonnets of the
Mid-1860’s.” Civil War Lady
2
no. 12 (1994):
14-18.
Bowling, Elizabeth. “Making the
Common Slat Bonnet.” Citizens’
Companion 5 no. 5
(December 1998-January 1999):
32-37.
Christen, Glenna Jo. “Slat
Bonnets: Not Just for Work
Anymore.” The Watchdog 8
no. 3
(Summer 2000):
7-8.
Clark, Fiona. Hats.
Costume Accessories Series. New
York: Drama Book Publishers,
1982.
Darnell, Paula Jean. Victorian
Millinery: Ladies’ Hats,
1850-1900. Reno, Nev.:
Fabric
Fancies, 1995.
Dreher, Denise. From the Neck
Up: An Illustrated Guide to
Hatmaking. Minneapolis:
Madhatter Press, 1981.
Dublin, Thomas. “Women’s Work
and the Family Economy: Textiles
and Palm Leaf
Hatmaking in New England, 1830-1850.”
Tocqueville Review 5 no. 2 (1983):
297-316.
Gamber, Wendy. The Female
Economy: The Millinery and
Dressmaking Trades,
1860-1930.
Urbana: University of
Illinois Press, 1997.
Gray, Linda. “The Case of the
Hidden Bonnet Pins.” Citizens’
Companion 8 no. 3
(August-September 2001):
21-23.
The Ladies’ Self-Instructor in Millinery and Mantua Making, Embroidery and
Applique.
1853.
Reprint. Mendocino, CA: R. L. Shep, 1988.
Langley, Susan and John Dowling. Vintage
Hats and Bonnets, 1770-1970: Identification
and Values.
Paducah, KY: Collector
Books, 1998.
Leisch, Juanita. “Implementing
Historic Accuracy: A ‘Sharp’
Approach.” Civil War Lady 1
no. 2 (1991):
5-7. [head coverings for
females according to age]
Leisch, Juanita. “Topping Off
Your Impression.” Civil War
Lady 1, no. 6: 9-11. [hats]
Liechty, Mindy. "An Infant's Slat Bonnet from Mrs. Christen's
Miscellanea." The Watchdog 10
no. 3 (Summer 2002): 15.
Marsh, Heidi, comp. Hair, Hat,
Hood, and Bonnet, Too, of the Era of the Hoop.
Livermore, CA:
by the author, 1993.
Mellish, Susan. “Romancing the
Past with Hats.” Lady’s Gallery 1 no. 5 (1994): 4-13.
Miller, Lynnette. “Fashionable
Bonnets--1860 to 1865.” Civil
War Lady 2 no.9 (1993):
17-19.
Miller, Lynnette. “A Hood by Any
Other Name...” Civil War Lady
2 no.10 (1994): 13-15.
Miller, Lynnette. “Popular Trims
for Fashionable Bonnets, 1855-1865,” Citizens’
Companion 2 no. 2 (June/July 1995):
13-15.
Miller, Lynnette. “Popular Trims
for Fashionable Bonnets, 1855-1865.” Citizens’
Companion 2 no.3 (August/September
1995): 14-16.
Miller, Lynette. “Searching for
the Every Day Bonnet.” Citizens’
Companion 3 no. 5
(December 1996/January 1997):
24-27. [sunbonnets]
Miller, Lynnette. “To Drive the
Cold Winter Away.” Citizens’
Companion 1 no.5
(December-January, 1995):
13-15. [hoods, soft bonnets,
etc.]
Murphy, Vivian. “Netting for the
Hair: Simple or Elaborate
Headdresses from the Needle
Arts of the 19th Century.”
Citizens’ Companion 4 no. 3 (August-September 1997):
25-29.
Musselman, Anne and Beth Crabb. “More
Slat Bonnet Observations.” The
Watchdog 9 no.
4 (Fall 2001):
12-14.
Sneathen, Brenda. “Vive La Belle
Chapeaux, or Long Live the Beautiful Hat.” Vintage
Fashion 2 no.4 (July/August 1991):
32-38.
Wilson, Kax. “Nineteenth-Century
Embroidery on Net” Piecework 2 no.2 (March/April
1994): 28-30.
British
Clothing
Arnold, Janet. Patterns of
Fashion: English Women’s Dresses
and Their Construction,
c.1660-1860.
London: Wace, 1964.
Bentley, Nicolas. The Victorian
Scene: A Picture Book of the
Period, 1937-1901.
London:
George Wiedenfeld & Nicolson, 1968.
Cunnington, Cecil Willett. English
Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century.
New
York:
Dover, 1990.
Cunnington, Cecil Willett, and Phyllis Cunnington.
Handbook of English Costume in the
Nineteenth Century.
London: Faber and Faber,
1970.
Tozer, Jane and Sarah Levitt. Fabric
of Society: A Century of People and
Their Clothes,
1770-1870.
Carno, Piwys, Wales: Laura
Ashley, 1983.
Buttons
Dubner, Lindy. "About Calico Buttons." Civil War Lady
no. 20 (1997): 6.
Fink, Nancy and Maryalice Ditzler. Buttons:
The Collector’s Guide to Selecting,
Restoring, and Enjoying New and
Vintage Buttons. Philadelphia: Courage Books,
1993.
Luscomb, Sally C. The
Collector’s Encyclopedia of Buttons. Altglen, PA:
Schiffer, 1999.
Meredith, Alan and Gillian Meredith. Buttons.
Princes Risborough, Buckinghamshire:
Shire
Publications, 2000.
Nehring, Nancy. “Crocheted
Buttons.” Piecework 2 no.2 (March/April 1994):
65-67.
also “Crocheted and Buttons to Make”
pp. 68-69.
Nehring, Nancy. 50 Heirloom
Buttons to Make. Newtown, CT: Taunton Press, 1996.
Osborne, Peggy Ann. Button,
Button: Identification and Price
Guide. Altglen, PA:
Schiffer, 1997.
Wisniewski, Debra J. Antique
& Collectible Buttons: Identification
& Values. Paducah,
KY: Collector Books, 1997.
Zaharias, John A. “Button,
Button, Who’s Got the Button?” The
Watchdog 7 no. 2 (Spring
1999):
15.
Canadian
Clothing
Brett, Katharine B. Clothing
Worn in Canada: Changing Fashions
in the Nineteenth
Century.
[Ottawa]: National Museum of
Man, National Museums of Canada, 1979.
McBride, Sheri. “Dress Codes: The
Etiquette of Dress in 19th Century Charlottetown.”
Island Magazine 48
(2000): 31-38. [Prince
Edward Island]
Chemisettes
“In Detail.” Threads
no.100 (April/May 2002): back
cover.
Children’s
Clothing
Bassett, Lynne Zacek. "'The Great Leap": Youths'
Clothing in the Early Nineteenth
Century." Annual
Proceedings of the Dublin Seminar for New England Folklife.
22 (1997): 184-202.
[1820's-1850's]
Carpenter, Virginia. “American
Children as Seen in Fashion Publications: 1850-1890.”
Master’s thesis, Cornell University,
1948.
“Civilian Life Featured in Siege of Charleston Exhibit.”
Citizens’ Companion 7 no. 3
(August-September 2000):
9. [Includes photo of
child’s dress]
Clark, Elizabeth. "Dressing Young boys: Options for Living
History." The Watchdog 10
no. 2 (Spring 2002): 18-19.
Crocker, Karen N. “Coming of Age
in Victorian America.” Citizens’
Companion 4 no. 2
(June-July 1997):
12-16. [younger girls]
Crocker, Karen N. “Coming of Age
in Victorian America: A Guide for
Dressing the Young
Lady Reenactor.”
Citizens’ Companion 4 no. 3 (August-September 1997):
12-15.
Crocker, Karen N. “Dressing the
Young Reenactor.” The Lady
Reenactor v.1, pp.
32-35, 58-59.
Crocker, Karen N. “Infant
Dress--1845-1865.” Citizens’
Companion 2 no. 4
(October/November 1995):
10-12.
“Exhibit of Children’s Clothing Explores ABCs of Gender Identity.”
Citizens’ Companion 6
no. 3 (August-September 1999):
9. [includes photo of boy’s wool plaid skirt suit,
c.1865]
Harris, Kristina. The Child in
Fashion, 1750 to 1920. Atglen,
PA: Schiffer Pub. Ltd.,
1999.
Haug, Joanne. “Dressing Up:
Boy’s Early Childhood Costume” Lady’s Gallery 1 no.3
(1993):
44-49.
Helvenston, Sally I. “American
Children’s Costume in the Period 1841-1885 and Its Relation
to the Child’s Role in Society.” M.S.
thesis, Florida State University, 1975.
Kartchner, Grace Joan. “Dresses
of Mormon Girls, Ages One to Twelve, in the Great Salt
Lake and Utah Valleys from 1847 to
1896.” M.S. thesis, Oregon State
University,
1975.
Kevill-Davies, Sally. Yesterday’s
Children: The Antiques and History
of Childcare.
Woodbridge, Suffolk, England:
Antique Collectors’ Club, 1991.
Leisch, Juanita. “Advice for
Young Mothers.” Civil War Lady
1 no. 1 (May/June 1991):
20-22; 1 no. 5: 17; 2 no.8: 19-20.
Leisch, Juanita. “Advice for
Young Mothers: Sound Advice for
Dressing Youngsters.” Civil
War Lady
1 no. 2 (1991): 14-16; 1 no.3 (1992): 19-21; 1 no.4 (1992): 17.
Leisch, Juanita. “Children’s
Corner.” Civil War Lady 1
no.6: 17; 2 no. 7: 17-18.
MacPhail, Anna. The Well-Dressed
Child. Atglen, PN: Schiffer,
1999. [British]
Miller, Beth. “Advice to Young
Mothers.” Civil War Lady 2
no.10 (1994): 18.
Miller, Beth. “Dressing Baby.” Civil War Lady 2 no.9 (1993): 10-11.
Miller, Lynnette. “Infant
Caps—A Small Controversy.” Civil
War Lady 2, no. 11 (1994):
27-28.
Olian, JoAnne. Children’s
Fashions, 1860-1912: 1,065 Costume
Designs from "La
Mode Illustre.”
New York: Dover
Publications, 1994.
Richards, M. Lynn. “Memories of a
Girlhood Apparel From the United States Indian
Territory, 1850-1907.” Costume 29 (1995):
68-81.
Rose, Clare. Children’s
Clothes Since 1750. London:
Batsford, 1989.
Church of
the Brethren
Rupel, Esther Fern. Brethren Dress: A Testimony to Faith.
Philadelphia, PA: Brethren
Encyclopedia, 1994.
Collars,
Cuffs, Neckties, and Wristlets
Campbell-Shoaf, Heidi. “Details,
Details, Details: Women’s
Neckties & Wristlets.”
Citizens’ Companion 7
no. 1 (April-May 2000): 12-18.
“CDVs: Take a Look at These
Collars.” Costume &
Dressmaker no. 3 (1997): 9.
Scalessa, Nicole H. “Nineteenth-Century
American Women’s Collars and Cuffs: Beautiful
and Necessary.”
Piecework 10 no. 3 (May/June 2002):
59-62.
Scalessa, Nicole H. “Point
D’Eglantier Collar to Crochet.” Piecework
10 no. 3 (May/June
2002:
63-64. [from June, 1854]
Corselets
Melcher, Joy and Jen Peterman. “Corselets.”
Civil War Lady no.21 (1999):
6-9.
Corsets
and Stays
Ambrose, Bonnie Holt. The
Little Corset Book: A Workbook on
Period Underwear.
New York:
Costume & Fashion Press, 1997.
Doyle, Robert. Waisted Efforts:
An Illustrated Guide to Corset Making.
Halifax, N.S.:
Sartorial Press Publications,
1997.
Faeth-Greketis, Maryanne. “The Corset Question.”
Citizens’ Companion 1
no.1
(April/May 1994):
13.
Fontanel, Beatrice. Support and
Seduction: The History of Corsets
and Bras. New
York:
Abrams, 1997.
Gray, Linda. “Stays—An
Alternative to Corsets.” Citizens’
Companion 4 no. 1
(April-May 1997):
16-17.
Hawthorne, Rosemary. Chinstraps,
Nose-Moulds & Corsets: A
Shopper’s Guide to
Feminine Beauty, 1800s-1930s.
London: Michael O’Mara,
1999.
Kolbe, Val. “Urban, Middle-Class
Women and the Fashion of Corsetry in Nineteenth
Century.”
M.S. thesis, University of Wisconsin, 1984.
Smith, Bernard. “Market
Development, Industrial Development: The
Case of the American
Corset Trade, 1860-1920.”
Business History Review 65 no. 1 (1991):
l91-129.
Steele, Valerie. The Corset:
A Cultural History. New
Haven: Yale University Press,
2001.
Summers, Leigh. Bound to Please:
A History of the Victorian Corset.
New York: Berg,
2001.
Waugh, Norah. Corsets and
Crinolines. New York:
Theatre Arts Books/Methuen, 1954.
Eyeglasses
Corson, Richard. Fashions in
Eyeglasses. London:
Peter Owen, 1980.
Hughes, Nicky. “A Closer Look.”
The Watchdog 3 no. 4 (Autumn 1995):
6-7.
[eyeglasses]
McEvoy, Thomas. “Civil War
Glasses—Or, How Not to Make a Spectacle of Yourself.”
The Lady Reenactor
v.1, pp.48-49.
Merta, Matt. "The Eyes Have It: A Close Look at Civil War
Period Eye Wear." Camp
Chase Gazette 20 no. 4 (March
1993): 38-40.
Fancy
Dress
Chartrand, Karen. “Fancy Dress:
A Kaleidoscope of Costume.” Civil
War Lady no. 23
(1999):
2-7.
Schmitt, Carolann. “Fancy Dress:
Costumes for These Special Occasions Require Originality
and Creativity.”
Citizens’ Companion 6 no. 3 (August-September 1999):
12-18.
Fans
Alexander, Helene. Fans.
Costume Accessories Series. New
York: Drama Book
Publishers, 1984.
Alexander, Helene. Fans.
Princes Risborough: Shire,
2002.
Blue, Wendy Hamilton. “Cupid’s
Weapon.” Lady’s Gallery
2 no.4: 4-9. (fans, including
two 1850, one mid-19th century, one 1840)
Hart, Avril. Fans. London: V &
A Publications, 1998.
Mackay, James. Fans.
Edison, NJ: Chartwell Books,
2000.
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft. History
of the Fan. London:
Kegan, Paul, Trench, Trubner, and
Co., 1910.
Fichus
Hughes, Susan Lyons. “Fishing
for a Correct Fichu.” The
Watchdog 2 no. 2 (Summer
1994): 5.
Logan, Anisa P. “The Lacy
Fichu.” Civil War Lady no.
22 (1999): 2-7.
Frontier
Clothing
Campbell, Julie A. and Brenda Brandt.
“’No Seamstresses, No Ready-Made Clothing’:
Clothing Consumption on the
American Frontier, 1850-1890.” Clothing
and Textiles
Research Journal v.12 no. 3 (1994):
16-21.
Carlson, Laurie Winn. “On
Sidesaddle to the Columbia: Pioneer Travel in Feminine
Fashion.”
Columbia 13 no. 1 (1999): 9-14.
Evenson, Sandra Lee and David J. Trayte. "Dress and the Negotiations
of Relationships
Between the Dakota and Euroamericans
in Nineteenth Century Minnesota" in Religion,
Dress and the Body. Edited
by Linda Arthur. Oxford: Berg, 1999. pp. 95-116.
Helvenston, Sally I. “Fashion on
the Frontier.” Dress 17
(1990): 141-155.
Helvenston, Sally I. “Feminine
Response to a Frontier Environment as Reflected in the
Clothing of Kansas Women:
1854-1895.” Ph.D.
dissertation, Kansas State University,
1985.
Helvenston, Sally I. “Ornament or
Instrument? Proper Roles for Women
on the Kansas
Frontier.”
Kansas Quarterly 18 no. 3 (1986):
35-49. [related to dress]
Holman, David and Billie Persons. Buckskin
and Homespun: Frontier Texas
Clothing,
1828-1870.
Austin: Wind River Press,
1979.
Larson, Joyce Marie. “Clothing of
Pioneer Women of Dakota Territory, 1861-1889.” M.S.
thesis, South Dakota State University,
1978.
Love, Deanna. “Dress of American
Women Pioneer in the Westward Movement from
1836-1889.” Master’s thesis, University of Maryland, 1969.
McMartin, Maria Barbara. “Dress
of the Oregon Trail Emigrants: 1843-1855.” Master’s
thesis, Iowa State University, 1977.
Richard, K. Keith. “Of
‘Gingham,’ ‘Barn Doors,’ and ‘Exquisites’:
George H. Himes on
Pioneer Fashion.”
Oregon Historical Quarterly 90 no. 4 (1990):
385-393.
[1850’s-1917]
Walker, Margaret. “’All the
Fantastic Costumes’: Rags on the
Way to Riches (And No
Skirting Around the Issue of Who Really
Wore the Pants).” Overland
Journal 15 no. 4
(1997-1998):
12-18. [clothing of women on
overland trail to California in the 1850s]
Fur
Ewing, Elisabeth. Fur in
Dress. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1981.
Garibaldi
Shirts
Gilbert, Pat. “The Great
Cover-Up.” Civil War Lady
2 no. 12 (1994): 20-21.
[Garibaldi
shirts]
Schmitt, Carolann. “Politics and
Fashion: The Garibaldi Shirt.”
Citizens’ Companion 1
no.3 (August/September 1994): 10-13.
General
The American Lady and the Lady of London Paper Dolls, Museum of the City of New
York.
New York: Dover
Publications, 1994. [“American
Lady” is reproduction of
1870; “Lady of London” is reproduction
of 1850]
Arnold, Janet. A Handbook of
Costume. New York:
Macmillan, 1974.
Baclawski, Karen. The Guide to
Historic Costume. New York:
Drama Book Publishers,
1995.
Bailey, Adrian. The Passion for
Fashion. Limpsfield:
Dragon’s World, 1988.
Baruma, Anna. Fashions of the
Past. London:
Collins & Brown, 2000.
Bickford-Swarthout, Doris. “Victorian
Style.” Lady’s Gallery 4
no. 1 (Dec. 1996): 33-37.
[includes fashion plates
1841-1868
Bigelow, Marybelle S. Fashion in
History: Western Dress, Prehistoric
to Present. 2nd
ed. Minneapolis,
MN: Burgess Publishing Co., 1979.
Blum, Stella. Fashions and
Costumes from Godey’s Lady’s Book Including Eight Plates
in Full Color.
New York: Dover
Publications, 1985.
Bohrer, Norma. "A Victorian Lady's Accoutrements." Camp
Chase Gazette 20 no. 8
(July 1993): 38-40.
Bradfield, Nancy. Costume in
Detail, 1730-1930. Boston:
Plays, Inc., 1968, 1983.
Buck, Anne. Costume and Costume
Accessories. New York:
Thomas Nelson and Sons,
1962.
Buck, Anne. Victorian Costume
and Costume Accessories. London:
Herbert Jenkins,
1961. Rev. 2nd ed. New York: Costume & Fashion Press, 1997.
Burch, Janis G. “The Fashionable
Silhouette of American Women Using the Crinoline During
the Victorian Period of 1850 Through
1870.” M.S. thesis, University of
Wisconsin-Stout, 1987.
Burgess, Janet. Clothing
Guidelines for the Civil War Era. new
ed. Davenport, Iowa:
Amazon Drygoods, 1985.
Byrde, Penelope. Nineteenth
Century Fashion. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1992.
Capretz, Marilyn. “Women’s
Dresses (1850-1879): From Selected
South Louisiana
Costume Collections.”
M.S. thesis, University of Southwestern Louisiana, 1994.
Cashen, Marilynn A. A Moment in
Time: Images of Victorian Fashions
from the
Mid-1800s.
South Plainfield, NJ: MAC
Publications, 1992.
Cavanaugh, Cheryl Lynn. “Fashion,
Class and Labor: Clothing in
American Women’s
Fiction, 1840-1913.”
Ph.D. dissertation, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign,
1998.
Civil War Ladies: Fashions and
Needle-Arts of the Early 1860’s. Mendocino,
CA: R. L.
Shep, 1989.
Clark, Elizabeth Stewart. “Assembling
a ‘Best Bet’ Wardrobe: Good
Advice for New
Reenactors.”
Citizens’ Companion 8 no. 5 (December 2001-January 2002):
12-19.
Colburn, Carol Ann. “The Dress of
the James J. Hill Family, 1863-1916.” Ph.D.
dissertation, University of Minnesota,
1989.
Coleman, Elizabeth Ann. Changing
Fashions 1800-1970. New York:
Brooklyn Museum,
1972.
Collard, Eileen. The Cut of
Women’s 19th Century Dress, Part 3: Victorian
Gothic.
Burlington, Ontario:
Costume Society of Ontario, 1978.
Connolly, Marguerite Alexandra. “Dressing
for the Occasion: The
Differentiation of
Women’s Costume in America,
1770-1910.” Master’s thesis,
University of Delaware,
1987.
Costume Society. Early Victorian
Costume, 1830-1860: Proceedings of
the Third
Annual Conference of the Costume
Society, 1969. London:
Published for the
Society by Victoria and Albert Museum,
1969.
Costume Society. High Victorian
Costume, 1860-1890: Proceedings of
the Second
Annual Conference of the Costume
Society, 1968. London:
Published for the
Society by Victoria and Albert Museum,
1968.
Covais, Joseph S. “Women’s
Fashion 1830-1870: A Simplified
Perspective.” Mid West
Open-Air Museums Magazine 7 no.
2 (April-June 1986): 14-21.
Crane, Diana. Fashion and its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and
Identity in Clothing.
Chicago: University of Chicago
Press, 2000. [1850s-1990s]
Crocker, Karen N. “Coming of Age
in Victorian America: A Guide for
Dressing the Young
Lady Reenactor.”
Citizens’ Companion 4 no. 3 (August-September 1997):
12-15.
Crocker, Karen N. “Creating the
Proper Impression: How Did They
Make That?”
Citizens’ Companion 1
no.1 (April/May 1994): 14-17,
20-22.
Cumming, Valerie. Costume
History, 1500-1900. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1981.
Cumming, Valerie. The Visual
History of Costume Accessories. New
York: Costume &
Fashion Press, 1998.
Cunningham, Patricia, ed. Dress
in American Culture. Bowling
Green: Bowling Green
State University, 1993.
Cunnington, Cecil Willett. Feminine
Attitudes in the Nineteenth Century. New
York:
Haskell House Publishers,
1973.
Davenport, Millia. The Book of
Costume. Vol. I.
New York: Crown Publishers,
1948.
DeMarly, Diana. The History of
Haute Couture, 1850-1950. New
York: Holmes and
Meier, 1980.
Draper, Allison Stark. What
People Wore During the Civil War. New
York: PowerKids
Press, 2001.
During War Times, 1775-1945 [2001 Historic Fashions calendar].
Arlington, VA: Q
Graphics Production Company, 2000.
Evans, Mary. How to Make
Historic American Costumes. Detroit:
Gale Research Co.,
1976.
reprint of 1942 ed.
Ewing, Elisabeth. Everyday
Dress, 1650-1900. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1984.
“Fashion Notes from 1864: Arthur’s
Magazine.” Civil War Lady no.
21 (1999): 14-15.
A Fashion Survey: Nineteenth
Century American Women. Published
as a Guide for the
Cincinnati Art Museum.
Cincinnati, OH: Fashion
Group, n.d.
Fertig, Judith M. “Fashions from
the Gilded Age: The Shelburne
Museum Collection”
Vintage Fashion 2 no. 1
(January/February 1991): 28-34. [photo excellent 1860
gown].
Foster, Vanda. A Visual History
of Costume in the Nineteenth Century. London:
B. T.
Batsford, 1984.
Frost, S. Annie. The Art of
Dressing Well: A Complete Guide to
Economy, Style and
Propriety of Costume.
New York: Dick and
Fitzgerald, 1870.
Gernsheim, Alison. Fashion and
Reality. London: Faber & Faber, 1963.
Gibbs-Smith, Charles H. The
Fashionable Lady in the 19th Century. London:
Her
Majesty’s Stationery Office, 1960.
Ginsburg, Madeleine, et al. Four
Hundred Years of Fashion. London:
Victoria and Albert
Museum, 1992.
“The Girl I Left Behind Me.” Military
Images 6 no. 4 (January-February, 1985):
3-24.
Godey’s Lady’s Book. all
years. often available on microfilm
at university libraries.
Goldthorpe, Caroline. From Queen
to Empress: Victorian Dress,
1837-1877. New
York:
Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1988.
Grafton, Carol Belanger. Shoes,
Hats and Fashion Accessories: A
Pictorial Archive
1850-1940:
2,020 Illustrations. Mineola,
NY: Dover Publications, 1998.
Grafton, Carol Belanger. Victorian
Fashions: Over 1,200 Illustrations
of Women’s
Fashions from 1855-1903.
New York: Dover, 1999.
Grimble, Frances. After a
Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore,
and Wear Vintage
Styles.
San Francisco: Lavolta
Press, 1993.
Guinca, Mary. “Something in the
Water: 19th-Century Watering Place
Customs and
Costumes.”
Lady’s Gallery 2, no. 1 (1994): 33-38.
Harper’s New Monthly Magazine. available
on microfilm in many university libraries.
Harper’s Weekly Magazine. available
on microfilm in many university libraries.
Harris, Kristina. Collector’s
Guide to Vintage Fashions: Identification
and Value.
Paducah, KY:
Collector Books, 1999.
Harris, Kristina. Victorian
& Edwardian Fashions for Women, 1840 to 1919.
Atglen,
PA: Schiffer
Publishing Ltd., 1995.
Hartley, Florence. The Ladies’
Book of Etiquette, and Manual of Politeness.
Boston: J.
S. Locke and Co., 1860.
Reprint ed. Davenport, IA:
Amazon Drygoods, 1993. [See
chapters “Dress,” “Traveling,”
“Receipts for the Complexion, &c,” and suggestions in
other chapters on proper dress.]
Haug, Joanne. “The Fashionable
Lady.” Lady’s Gallery 1
no.1 (1993): 29-31.
Hawley, David. The Treasures of
the Steamboat Arabia. Kansas
City: the author, 1995.
[photos of some clothing and
related articles.]
Helvenston, Sally I. “Popular
Advice for the Well-Dressed Woman in the 19th Century.”
Dress 5 (1980):
31-47.
Holland, Vyvyan. Hand Coloured
Fashion Plates, 1770 to 1899. London:
B. T.
Batsford, 1955.
Hoobler, Dorothy. Vanity Rules:
A History of American Fashion and Beauty.
Brookfield, CT: Milbrook Press, 1999.
Hughes, Susan Lyons. First
Impressions: Getting Started in
Civilian Reenacting.
Marietta, OH: Camp Chase Publishing Co., 1994.
Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costume
for Stage and Screen: Patterns for
Women’s Dress,
1800-1909.
Studio City, NY: Players
Press, 1991.
Illustrated London News.
Introligator, Meredith Rachel. “Clothing
Storage in Nineteenth Century U.S. Households.”
M.S. thesis, Iowa State
University, 1989.
Jonston, Susan. Fashion Paper
Dolls from Godey’s Lady’s Book 1840-1854.
New
York:
Dover Publications, 1977.
Joselit, Jenna Weissman. A
Perfect Fit: Clothes, Character,
and the Promise of
America.
New York: Metropolitan
Books, 2001.
Kalman, Bobbie. 19th Century
Clothing. New York:
Crabtree Publishing Co., 1993.
Kidwell, Claudia and Valerie Steele. Men
and Women: Dressing the Part.
Washington,
DC:
Smithsonian Institute Press, 1989.
Kunciov, Robert. Mr.Godey’s
Ladies. New York:
Bonanza Books, 1971.
Laver, James. Fashions and
Fashion Plates, 1800-1900. London:
King Penguin Books,
1943.
Leisch, Juanita. Civil War
Civilians. Gettysburg:
Thomas Publications, 1994.
Leisch, Juanita. “An Epistle on
Individuality.” Civil War Lady
1 no.5: 5-8.
Leisch, Juanita. The Family
Album: Ladies’ Wear Daily.
Berryville, Va: The Author,
1986.
Leisch, Juanita. “A Photographic
Survey Made Easy: How We Know
‘Who Wore What.’”
Citizens’ Companion 2
no. 5 (December 1995/January 1996): 21-24.
Leisch, Juanita. “Studying
Original Civil War Bodices.” Civil
War Lady 2 no. 7 (1993):
12-14.
Leisch, Juanita. Who Wore What?
Women’s Wear, 1861-1865. Gettysburg,
PA: Thomas,
1995.
Leisch, Juanita. “Who Wore What?
Examining the Methodology.” Citizens’
Companion 2
no. 4 (1995):
13-17.
Levitt, Sarah. Victorians
Unbuttoned: Registered Designs for
Clothing, Their Makers
and Wearers, 1838-1900.
London: George Allen and
Unwin, 1986.
Look of the Ladies: Clothing During
the Civil War. Philadelphia,
PA: Civil War Library
and Museum, 1995. [exhibit catalog]
Lord, William Barry. The Corset
and the Crinoline: A Book of Modes
and Costumes
from Remote Periods to the Present
Time. London: Ward,
Lock, and Tyler, 1868.
Lowe, Elizabeth D. “Museum
Collections vs. Fashion Magazines: Aesthetic
Rules.” Home
Economics Research Journal 19
no. 3 (March 1991): 233-eoa.
MacDonald, Anne L. No Idle
Hands: The Social History of
American Knitting. New
York:
Ballantine Books, 1988.
McClellan, Elisabeth. History of
American Costume, 1607-1870. New
York: London:
B.
T. Batsford, 1986.
McKeown, Deborah. “Crinoline
Triumphant! Women’s Fashions
1860-1865.” Citizens’
Companion 1 no.4 (September/October
1994): 21-25; 1 no.5 (December-January
1995): 21-25.
McMurry, Elsie F. American
Dresses, 1780-1900: Identification
and Significance of
148 Extant Dresses.
Ithaca, NY: Cornell
University, 2001. CD-ROM.
McMurry, Elsie F. “Reflections of
Cultural Change in American Dress from 1850-1890.”
M.S. thesis, Cornell University,
1966.
Marsh, Heidi, comp. Knit, Net,
Crochet, and More of the Era of the Hoop. Livermore,
CA: by
the author, 1993.
Marsh, Heidi, comp. Sew and So
Forth of the Era of the Hoop. Livermore,
CA: by the
author, 1994.
Marsh, Heidi, comp. Styles and
So Forth of the Era of the Hoop. Livermore,
CA: by the
author, 1994.
Martin, Richard and Harold Koda. Bloom.
New York: Metropolitan
Museum of Art,
1995. [includes 1864, 1856 gowns]
Martin, Richard and Harold Koda. Swords
Into Ploughshares. New York:
Metropolitan
Museum of Art, 1995.
Melcher, Joy. “Women Who Work.”
Civil War Lady no. 20 (1997): 12-16.
Mescher, Virginia. Historic
Accounts: A Study of Store Ledgers
from the Mid-Nineteenth
Century, With a Searchable Database.
Burke, VA: Vintage Volumes, 2001.
CD-ROM.
“Middle Aged Women and Little Old Ladies.”
Civil War Lady no. 18 (November 1996):
14-17.
Mills, Betty J. Amanda’s New
Life: A Journal of Fashion History
Through Paper
Dolls.
Lubbock: Texas Tech
University, 1983. [Well
researched—second of three
volume set.]
Moore, Doris Langley-Levy. Fashion
Through Fashion Plates: 1771-1970.
New York:
Clarkson N. Potter, 1971.
Moore, Doris Langley-Levy. The
Woman in Fashion. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1949.
Musser, Cynthia Erfurt. “Silhouettes
in the Past: A Study in Fashion
Trends. The 1840s:
End of the Crinoline.”
Vintage Fashions 1 no.3 (May/ June 1990):
18-25.
Musser, Cynthia Erfurt. “Silhouettes
in the Past: A Study in Fashion
Trends. The 1850s:
Craze for the Hoop.”
Vintage Fashions 2 no.3 (May/June 1991): 36-42.
Musser, Cynthia Erfurt. “Silhouettes
in the Past: A Study in Fashion
Trends. The 1860s, Part
I: Pyramid
Shaping, Looped-Up Skirts and Round Waists.” Vintage Fashions 3 no. 1
(January/February 1992): 12-16.
Norris, Herbert. Costume &
Fashion. New York:
Dutton, 1933.
“Novelties for December From the Pages of Lady’s Book, 1857.” Lady’s
Gallery 1 no.3
(1993):
50.
“Orientalism: Visions of the East
in Western Dress.” Lady’s
Gallery 2 no. 4: 60, 63. [photo
of opera cloak, c1850]
Peacock, John. Costume,
1066-1990s. Rev. ed.
London: Thomas and Hudson,
1994.
Perrot, Philippe. Fashioning the
Bourgiousie: A History of Clothing
in the Nineteenth
Century.
Princeton: Princeton
University Press, 1994.
Peterson’s Magazine.
Peterson’s Patterns for Civil War Era Ladies. 2nd ed.
Springfield, OR: Pioneer
Printwork, 1994.
Presley, Ann Beth and Martha Jenkins. “A
19th Century Day Dress, Documentation and
Reproduction.” Costume & Dressmaker no. 1 (1996):
5-9.
Rawlings, Eleanor Hasbruck. Godeys
Costume Plates in Color. New
York: Dover
Publications, 1979.
Reflections. [1998 Historic
Fashions calendar]. Arlington, VA: Q Graphics Production
Co., 1997.
Richardson, Joanna. La Vie
Parisienne, 1852-1870. New
York: Viking Press, 1971.
Roberts, Helene E. “The Exquisite
Slave: The Role of Clothes in the
Making of the Victorian
Woman.”
Signs 2 no. 3 (1977): 554-569.
Rowland-Warne, L. Costume.
Eyewitness Books. New York: Alfred
A. Knopf, 1992.
[Although a children’s book,
many excellent color photographs of original and
reproduction clothing and accessories.]
Ruth, John A. Decorum, a
Practical Treatise on Etiquette and Dress of the Best
American Society. Tyrone PA: Westvaco,
1979.
Schmidt, Albert J. Fashioning
the Bourgeoisie: A History of
Clothing in the Nineteenth
Century.
Princeton, NJ: Princeton
University Press, 1994.
Schmitt, Carolann. “Some Thoughts
on Diversity in Dress: ‘Playing
It Safe’ vs. Finding New
Information.”
Citizens’ Companion 9 no. 1 (April-May 2002):
25-27.
Setnik, Linda. Victorian Costume
for Ladies, 1860-1900. Atglen,
PA: Schiffer Pub. Ltd.,
2000.
Severa, Joan. Dressed for the
Photographer: Ordinary Americans
& Fashion,
1840-1900.
Kent, Ohio: Kent State
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Sirkis, Susan Bonsall. The Wish
Booklet: Fashion 1861-1865.
Reston, VA: the author,
1965.
[costuming dolls]
Snyder-Haug, Diane. Antique
& Vintage Clothing: A Guide to
Dating & Valuation of
Women’s Clothing 1850 to 1940.
Paducah, KY: Collector
Books, 1997. [pp. 8-19
is “The Crinoline 1850-1869.”]
Strand, Sandra Lou. “The
Psychology of Dress and Its Effects Interpreted in Nineteenth
Century Costume of Women.”
M.A. thesis, University of Washington, 1964.
“Swords into Ploughshares: Military
Dress and the Civilian Wardrobe.” Lady’s
Gallery 3
no. 2 (1995):
58. [review of an exhibit at
the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York,
NY]
Tandberg, Gerilyn G. “Towards
Freedom in Dress for the 19th Century Woman.”
Dress
11 (1985):
11-30. [morning gowns,
josies, maternity dresses, day gowns]
Taylor, Lauren. “A Common Thread:
A Review of Civil War Fashions.” Civil
War Times
Illustrated 24 no. 3 (1985):
32-41.
Thieme, Otto C. Simply Stunning.
Cincinnati, OH: Cincinnati Museum, 1988.
Thieme, Otto C., et al. With
Grace & Favour: Victorian and
Edwardian Fashion in
America.
Cincinnati: Cincinnati Art
Museum, 1993.
“A Time Line of Influences on American Clothing, 1840-1990.” Human
Ecology Forum 19
no. 3 (Spring 1991):
22-25.
Tortora, Phyllis and Keith Eubank. A
Survey of Historic Costume. New
York: Fairchild
Publications, 1989.
Turza, Beth. “Women’s Work
Dresses.” Midwest Open Air Museum Magazine 21 no. 1
(2000):
17-21.
Turza, Beth. “Working Women’s
Attire: A Study of Four Cotton
Print Dresses &
Construction Notes.”
Citizens’ Companion 5 no. 6 (February-March 1999):
18-24.
Tyler, Linda Kartchner. “Material
Culture of Nineteenth-Century America as Reflected in
Women’s Fashion.”
D.A. thesis, Illinois State University, 1999.
Urbanski, Mary Ellen. "A Civil War Fashion Dictionary, Part
II." Camp Chase Gazette 18
no. 5 (April 1991): 26-27.
Urbanski, Mary Ellen. "The Dilemma of the 'Everyday'
Woman." Camp Chase Gazette 19
no. 10 (September 1992): 34-35.
Urbanski, Mary Ellen. “In the Eye
of the Beholder.” Citizens’
Companion 3 no. 6
(February-March 1997):
11-13.
Urbanski, Mary Ellen. “Myths,
Fallacies and Misinformation.” Citizens’
Companion 1 no.3
(August/September 1994): 17-19.
Vansteamburg, Arny. The Everyday
Clothing of Rural Women at the Time of the Civil
War.
Rev. ed. Baltimore:
Mariah Furnace Press, 1993.
Vachon, Diane Leggett. “Documentation
Guidelines for Women’s Day Dress, 1850-1949.”
M.A. thesis, University of
Kentucky, 1976.
Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from “La Mode Illustree”. Mineola, NY: Dover
Publications, 1998.
Victorian Fashion Designs CD-ROM and Book.
New York: Dover, 2002.
Walkley, Christina. Dressed to
Impress: 1840-1914. London: B. T.
Batsford, 1989.
Walkley, Christina and Vanda Foster. Crinolines
and Crimping Irons: Victorian
Clothes,
How They Were Cleaned and Cared For. London: Peter
Owen, 1978.
Warner, Patricia Campbell. “’It
Looks Very Nice Indeed’: Clothing
in Women’s Colleges,
1837-1897.”
Dress 28 (2001): 23-39.
Warren, Geoffrey. Fashions &
Accessories, 1840 through 1980. Atglen,
PA: Schiffer
Pub. Co., 1997.
Waugh, Norah. The Cut of
Women’s Clothes, 1600-1300. New
York: Theatre Arts
Boks, 1968, 1985.
Wilcox, R. Turner. Five
Centuries of American Costume. New
York: Scribner, 1963.
Winter, Janet and Carolyn Schultz. Victorian
Costuming vol. I:
1840-1865. Oakland,
CA: Other
Times Productions, 1980.
Women & Children. [1999
Historic Fashions calendar]. Arlington,
VA: Q
Graphics
Production Co., 1998.
Women’s Fashions at the Time of the Civil War, 1860-1865, v.1-3.
Beverly Shores, IN:
Yesterday in Pictures, 1991.
Worrell, Estelle A. American
Costume, 1840-1920. Harrisburg:
Stackpole Books, 1979.
York, Kathleen A. Civil War
Ladies Sketchbook, v. 1-3. Elgin,
Ill.: House of York, 1980.
Ziegert, Beate. “American Clothing: Identity
in Mass Culture, 1840-1990.” Human
Ecology Forum 19 no. 3 (Spring 1991):
5-11.
Genre and
Other Paintings as Sources
American Genre Painting in the Victorian Era.
New York: Hirschl &
Adler, 1978.
[good color illustrations.]
Ayres, William, ed. Picturing
History: American Painting,
1770-1930. New York:
Rizzoli, 1993.
[good illustrations.]
Burns, Sarah. Pastoral
Inventions: Rural Life in
Nineteenth-Century Art and Culture.
Philadelphia:
Temple University Press, 1989.
Clark, H. Nichols B. Francis W.
Edmonds: American Master in the
Dutch Tradition.
Washington, DC: Published for Amon Carter Museum by the Smithsonian
Institution
Press, 1988.
[good illustrations for fine genre artist.]
Edwards, Lee M. Domestic Bliss:
Family Life in American Painting, 1840-1910.
Yonkers, NY: Hudson River Museum, 1986.
[Good interior scenes of people at
home.]
Fischel, Oskar, and Max von Boehm. Modes
and Manners of the Nineteenth Century as
Represented in the Pictures and
Engravings of the Time. v.3, 1843-1878.
London:
J. M. Dent, 1909.
Garrett, Elisabeth Donaghy. At
Home: The American Family,
1750-1870. New York:
Abrams, 1990.
[Useful for illustrations.]
Hills, Patricia. The Painters’
America: Rural and Urban Life,
1810-1910. New York:
Praeger, 1974.
Holzer, Harold and Mark E. Neeley, Jr. Mine
Eyes Have Seen the Glory: The Civil
War
in Art.
New York: Orion Books, 1993.
Johns, Elizabeth. American Genre
Painting: The Politics of Everyday
Life. New Haven:
Yale University Press, 1991.
[Good illustrations.]
Ormond, Richard and Carol Blackett-Ord. Franz
Zaver Winterhalter and the Courts of
Europe, 1830-1870. London: National
Portrait Gallery, 1987.
Peterson, Harold L. Americans at
Home: From the Colonists to the
Late Victorians.
New York:
Scribner’s, 1971.
Spencer, Lily Martin. Lily
Martin Spencer, 1822-1902: The Joys
of Sentiment.
Washington:
National Collection of Fine Arts, 1973.
[A wonderful American genre
artist who focused on the home and
family.]
Taylor, Joshua C. America as Art.
Washington: National
Collection of Fine Arts, 1976.
Williams, Hermann Warner, Jr. Mirror
to the American Past: A Survey of
American
Genre Painting:
1750-1900. Greenwich
CT: New York Graphic Society,
Gloves and
Mitts
Cumming, Valerie. Gloves.
Costume Accessories Series. London:
B. T. Batsford, 1982.
Falls, Dixie. “Fingerless Silk
Mitts to Crochet.” Piecework 2 no. 4 (July/August 1994):
48-51.
Kalil, Lynn. “Hand in Hand: Ladies’ Gloves and Reenacting.”
The Watchdog 6 no. 3
(Summer 1998): 5-6.
Hair
Styles
Byrd, Ayana D. and Lori L. Tharps.
Hair Story: Untangling
the Roots of Black Hair in
America.
New York: St. Martin’s
Press, 2001.
Griffin, Bobette. “Victorian
Style Hair.” The Lady
Reenactor v.1, p.22.
Isaacson, Jon. “What’s Wrong
with This Picture? Well, Hair It Is!” [men’s hair styles and
hair dressing] Citizens’ Companion
2 no. 2 (June/July 1995): 16-18.
Lawhon, Victoria. “Creating a
Period Hairstyle: A Period
Hairstyle for Every Occasion.”
Citizens’ Companion 6
no. 2 (June-July 1999): 12-15.
McKeown, Deborah. “Hairstyles and
Head Dress.” Citizens’
Companion 2 no. 5
(December 1995/January 1996):
12-17.
Sherman, Ruthann. 1860-65
Victorian Coiffure. Marietta,
GA: by the author, 1988.
Wong, J. “Hair Plaiting.” Civil War Lady no.
15 (1995): 12-13.
Wong, J. “In Search of the
1860’s Hairstyle.” Civil War
Lady 2 no. 7 (1993): 25.
Hoop
Skirts and Petticoats
Altman, Saundra. “Stick-Out
Petticoats.” Civil War Lady
no. 17 (1996): 22-24, 26-29.
Clayton-Gouthro, Cecile. “Social
Commentary in Nineteenth Century Crinoline Cartoons
from Punch.” Dress 23 (1996):
63-74.
“Exhibit of Hoop Skirts Opens in Philadelphia.”
Citizens’ Companion 6 no. 3
(August-September, 1999): 10. [includes photo of 1865 hoop skirt]
Gamble, J. G. “Dressed to Kill:
The Mid-Nineteenth Century Crinoline Craze.”
Pharos of
Alpha Omega Alpha Honor Medical Society
63 no. 1 (Winter 2000): 16-21.
Garoutte, Sally, ed. Undercoverings,
1995. Volume 6 of the Research
Papers of American
Quilt Study Group.
Mill Valley, CA: American
Quilt Study Group, 1986. [includes
article on quilted petticoats]
McKeown, Deborah V. “The Scarlet
Flannel Petticoat: Origin and
Construction of a
Popular Garment.”
Citizens’ Companion 7 no. 3 (August-September 2000):
21-24.
Miller, Beth. “Achieving the Look
of the 1860’s: Starching Your
Underpinnings.” Civil War
Lady 1, no. 6: 19-20.
“Petticoats and Pantalettes: Victorians
Undressed: Wadsworth Atheneum,
Hartford, CT.”
Lady’s Gallery 4 no.
2 (Feb 1997): 44-46. [shows female manikin in mid-19th
century underwear]
“Under Wraps, from Crinoline to Crinoline:
Undergarments 1850 to 1950.” Lady’s
Gallery
v.3 no. 2 (1995): 57, 62.
[review of exhibit at the Kemerer Museum of Decorative
Arts, Bethlehem, PA]
Walkley, Christina. “’Nor Iron
Bars a Cage.’” History Today
25 no. 10 (October 1975):
712-718.
[cage crinolines]
Jewelry,
Watches, and Related Accessories
Armstrong, Nancy. Victorian
Jewelry. New York:
Macmillan Publishing, 1976.
Baker-Anderson, Catherine. “Cameos in Vogue.”
Vintage Fashion 2
no.1 (January-
February 1991):
14-17.
Baker, Lillian. 100 Years of
Collectible Jewelry, 1850-1950. Paducah,
KY: Collector
Books, 1999.
Becker, Vivienne. Antique and Twentieth Century Jewellry:
A Guide for Collectors. 2d
ed. Colchester:
NAG Press, Ltd., 1987.
Bell, Jeanenne. Answers to
Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840 to 1950.
3rd ed.
Florence, Ala: Books Americana, 1985.
Bell, C. Jeanenne. Collector’s Encyclopedia of Hairwork Jewelry:
Identification &
Values.
Paducah, KY: Collector Books, 1998.
Bernstein, Michael J. “Hair
Jewelry, Locks of Love.” Smithsonian
6 no. 12 (1976):
997-100.
Blersch, Stuart. “Victorian
Jewelry Made of Hair.” Nineteenth
Century 6 no. 1 (1980):
42-43.
Bradford, Ernle. English
Victorian Jewellery. London:
Spring Books, 1967.
Bush, Nancy. “The Hair Workers of
Sweden.” Piecework 10 no.
3 (May/June 2002):
34-37.
Byassee, Jean L. "The Civil War Lady's Jewelry." Camp
Chase Gazette 19 no. 8 (July
1992): 42-43.
Byassee, Jean L. “Victorian
Jewelry.” The Lady
Reenactor 1, pp. 20-21, 57.
Byassee, Jean L. “Victorian
Sentimental Jewelry,” Citizens’ Companion 2 no. 2 (June-July
1995): 21.
Campbell, Mark. Self-Instructor
in the Art of Hair Work. New
York: Campbell, 1867.
Cooper, Diana and Norman Battershill. Victorian
Sentimental Jewellery. Newton
Abbot,
England:
David and Charles, 1972.
Ettinger, Roseann. Popular
Jewelry: 1840-1940. 2d ed. Atglen,
PA: Schiffer Pub., 1997.
Fales, Martha Gandy. Jewelry in
America, 1600-1900. Woodbridge,
Suffolk, U.K.:
Antique Collectors’ Club,
1995.
Flower, Margaret (Cameron Coss). Victorian
Jewellery. South Brunswick and
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